Category: Laugavegur Trail

Laugavegur Trail Logistics

Many of the small details of planning your Laugavegur Trail trek can end up being the biggest challenges. You probably know that the river crossing will be difficult, but you…

Many of the small details of planning your Laugavegur Trail trek can end up being the biggest challenges. You probably know that the river crossing will be difficult, but you might not be thinking as much about how you’ll get from the Keflavik Airport to your hotel in Reykjavik and then on to the start of the Laugavegur trail in Landmannalaugar. We’ve put together the following post to help you tackle all of those tricky logistical items that are sure to arise when you’re planning your own Laugavegur trail adventure.

Keflavik Airport (KEF) to Reykjavik

Most, if not all, walkers will arrive in Iceland at the Keflavik Airport (KEF), which is about 50km from the center of Reykjavik. If you are flying from the United States, your flight will likely arrive early in the morning, leaving you plenty of time to get settled in your accommodation in Reykjavik before starting your walk the next day. Here are your best options for getting from Keflavik to central Reykjavik:

  • Public Bus (Straeto)By far the most economical way to get from the airport to Reykjavik is the public bus. Straeto, Iceland’s public transportation company, runs an efficient airport bus (Route number 55) that picks up from the airport and makes several stops en route to central Reykjavik. The bus runs hourly during peak times, and as of 2019 the cost for a one-way fare to Reykjavik is 1,880 ISK. Tickets can be purchased from the bus driver upon boarding. Straeto has a very helpful smartphone app that allows you to plan your journey as well as pay for tickets, and we highly recommend travelers with phone access make use of it. 

  • FlyBus: FlyBus, operated by Reykjavik Excursions, is your best bet for private transfers from the airport to central Reykjavik. The bus picks up travelers from the airport and drops them off at either the central bus station (BSI Terminal) or at selected hotels throughout the city. The FlyBus can be booked in advance through the Reykjavik Excursions website and costs 3,449 ISK as of 2019. 

Where to Stay in Reykjavik

Lodging (and everything, really) is expensive in Reykjavik. Luckily, there are several good options to suit all budgets for staying in Reykjavik both before and after walking the Laugavegur Trail. Here are your best bets:

  • Reykjavik Campsite: The most economical option in town is to simply camp at the lovely Reykjavik Campsite. Located approximately 20-30 minutes by walking from central Reykjavik, the campground provides great facilities at a fraction of the cost of a hotel room. As a bonus, the bus to Landmannalaugar picks up directly from the campsite. 

  • Reykjavik City Hi Hostel: The most convenient hostel for those planning to walk the Laugavegur, the City Hi Hostel is located adjacent to the campsite as well as the bus pick-up location for getting to Landmannalaugar.

  • Hilton Reykjavik Nordica: For those looking for a more traditional hotel, we would highly recommend the Hilton Reykjavik Nordica. Located on the edge of central Reykjavik, the hotel offers nice rooms, a fantastic breakfast, and is just a short walk from the campsite for catching the bus to Landmannalaugar. 

You can check out all the options in and around Reykjavik here:

Booking.com

The Reykjavik Campsite is an affordable and convenient option for Laugavegur hikers.

 

Getting to/from the Laugavegur from Reykjavik

For those hiking the Laugavegur Trail from north to south, you’ll start in Landmannalaugar. There is no public bus service to Landmannalaugar so you’ll need to arrange private transportation. The best option in our opinion is the Reykjavik Excursions Iceland on Your Own Hiker Pass. The hiker pass provides walkers with transportation to the start of the Laugavegur trail as well as back to Reykjavik from the finish. You can take as much time as you need to complete the hike and can be picked from any of the three main access points on the Laugavegur: Landmannalaugar, Þórsmörk, and Skogar (for those also completing the Fimmvörðuháls). The cost as of 2019 is 14,000 ISK and the bus picks up walkers at the campsite as well as the BSI bus terminal. If you choose to complete the Fimmvörðuháls and finish in Skogar, Straeto (the public bus company) picks up here via Route 51. Check Straeto’s website for more details and timetables. 

For those hiking the trail from south to north and starting in Þórsmörk, you’ll need to use the Reykjavik Excursions service described above as there is no public bus to Þórsmörk. If you are starting your Laugavegur hike by first completing the Fimmvörðuháls, then you will also have the option of utilizing Straeto’s Route 51 described above. 

Keep in mind that all routes between Reykjavik and any of the three main access points for the Laugavegur take several hours. The journey between Reykjavik and Landmannalaugar takes about 4.5 hours, Reykjavik to/from Þórsmörk takes about 4 hours, and Reykjavik to/from Skogar takes about 3.5 hours. Therefore, you’ll want to plan the start and end of your hike accordingly to allow for enough time to complete each segment and also catch your return bus. 

Reykjavik Excursions provides easy access to and from the Laugavegur Trail.

 

Money

There are no ATMs along the Laugavegur Trail, so you’ll need to be prepared to pay for all of your expenses with cash you’ve brought along or with a credit card. All of the huts/campsites give you the option to pay for your accommodation and anything additional you may purchase with a credit card, although savvy travelers will want to   bring at least some cash as it’s possible that the credit card machines may not be working due to limited solar power.

Luggage Storage

Many walkers will be traveling with more luggage than they might like to carry while hiking the Laugavegur Trail. If that’s the case for you, you’ll find several options for luggage storage in Reykjavik. Luggage Lockers Iceland has several options throughout Reykjavik, with the most convenient locations for Laugavegur walkers being the Laugardalslaug Swimming Pool (adjacent to the campsite) and the BSI Bus Station, as both are pick-up and drop-off points for the bus to/from the Laugavegur. Note that the maximum luggage storage time at the BSI Bus Station is 5 days, while the Laugardalslaug Swimming Pool will allow you to store your luggage for up to 30 days. Both locations have several locker sizes as well as easy to use self-service kiosks. You can check locker sizes, prices, and opening hours for all of their locations here

Alternatively, many hotels in Reykjavik will gladly store your extra luggage if you are staying with them both before and after your Laugavegur Trail. The best option of course is to only pack what you need and avoid having to store any extra luggage at all!

But wait…there’s more!

Be sure to check out our entire series on the Laugavegur Trail get the all the information you need to prepare for this incredible adventure!

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Guide to Camping on the Laugavegur Trail

Hiking in Iceland gives a whole new meaning to the term wide open spaces. The volcanic landscapes on this stunning island are dynamic, colorful, wild, and unbelievably vast. One of…

Hiking in Iceland gives a whole new meaning to the term wide open spaces. The volcanic landscapes on this stunning island are dynamic, colorful, wild, and unbelievably vast. One of the most wonderful ways to experience the best of what Iceland’s backcountry has to offer (waterfalls, glaciers, geothermal activity, canyons, aquamarine rivers…you get the idea) is to hike the iconic Laugavegur Trail. This 34 mile (55 km) walk typically takes hikers 2-4 days.  It allows walkers to experience the remote and often harsh landscapes of the Icelandic wilderness while still providing some basic comforts and amenities. Those who want to maximize comfort might choose to stay in the mountain huts, while those seeking a more rugged (and affordable) experience can camp at every stage of the trek. Completing the hike is pretty straightforward, but there are nonetheless some important factors to consider in advance. This is particularly true if you are planning to camp along the trail. This guide will cover everything you need to know in order to prepare for an amazing Laugavegur camping adventure! 

Cascading falls on the way to Skogar.

 

First, a few basics about the hike:

Direction: We hiked the Laugavegur from north to south and we’d certainly recommend traveling in this direction if you want to avoid some very long climbs and be more likely to have the wind at your back.  If you do plan on hiking from south to north, expect a more challenging hike and plan for longer days on the trail. The “traditional” direction to hike is from north to south, but don’t expect to have the trail all to yourself if you go in the opposite direction. We saw several dozen hikers traveling northbound each day while we were out there. 

When to do it: The weather in Iceland can be extremely harsh. No matter when you go, expect cold, wet, and windy conditions for a least some parts of your trek and pack accordingly. This is especially important for campers. We hiked in early July and had great weather throughout, although it was still very cold at times. Even though it was peak season, it wasn’t overly crowded on the trail if we got an early start.  With the right gear (check out our packing list for more on this topic), campers can typically complete the hike from mid-June through early September. Make sure to always check with the hut wardens for the latest conditions and never attempt to hike through unsafe weather. 

Notes:

  • All prices in this guide are per person, per day.
  • This guide is based on a moderately-paced four day itinerary that begins in Landmannalaugar and ends in Þórsmörk (pronounced Thorsmork). There is an option to extend your hike by completing the Fimmvörðuháls Trail which connects Þórsmörk to Skogar. We have included information about this option in the guide as well. Many segments of the hike can be easily modified and these have been noted in the guide. For those hiking from south to north, most of this information still applies in reverse. Any exceptions have been noted in the guide. 
  • Wild camping is not permitted in Iceland. 
  • Campers will not have access to outlets for charging electronics until they reach the campground at Skogar. Plan accordingly. 
  • Reservations are not necessary for any of the campgrounds. 
  • You’ll find only a very limited inventory of (very expensive) supplies for sale at some of the huts along the trail. You should plan on stocking up on food, stove fuel, and provisions for your entire trek before leaving Reykjavik.

Campsite and hut at Landmannalaugar, the start of the Laugavegur Trail.

 

Day One: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

If you are planning on starting your hike in Landmannalaugar, you’ll likely need to catch a bus there from Reykjavik (see our Laugavegur Trail Logistics article for more on how to do this). The bus ride takes about 4.5 hours, so you’ll want to take this into consideration when planning out your first day of hiking. If you take a morning bus and arrive in Landmannalaugar by midday, you could complete the first stage to Hrafntinnusker in the same day. Alternatively, you could camp at Landmannalaugar and begin hiking the following morning. If you went with the latter option you could combine the first two stages into one longer day to make up time and avoid camping at Hrafntinnusker (see more on that below). Additionally, there are some great day hikes near Landmannalaugar as well as some truly incredible hot springs. 

Landmannalaugar: 

Services at Landmannalaugar: Indoor toilets, hot and cold water (safe for drinking), hot showers (500 ISK for 5 min), clothesline, sheltered cooking area, trash and recycling, small shop selling snacks, beer, and hiking necessities (blister pads, maps, and stove fuel), picnic tables. Note: The ground at the Landmannalaugar campsite is very hard and rocky. You’ll need to use the rocks provided to secure your tent, as you are unlikely to be able to get your stakes into the ground. A nice sleeping pad is also recommended. 

The “Mountain Mall” is also located at Landmannalaugar. This eccentric shop is housed within a ring of retro school buses. They sell snacks, hiker meals, warm drinks, beer/wine, and hiking necessities. They also have some nice indoor and outdoor seating areas. 

Price: 2000 ISK per person.

The lovely hot springs at Landmannalaugar.

 

Hrafntinnusker: 

The camping area at Hrafntinnusker is adjacent to the small hut which is located near the top of the pass. This is definitely the most exposed and rugged of all the campgrounds along the Laugavegur. You should think twice before deciding to camp here, since it is likely to be very cold and windy. As with all huts along the route, campers will not be allowed inside the hut, even in stormy conditions. If you decide to camp here, you’ll want a 0°F sleeping bag and a high-quality three season tent. If you’re feeling slightly less hardcore, you have a couple of options. You could splurge on a bed inside the hut for this stage (book in advance on the Ferðafélag Íslands website), or you could combine the first two stages of the hike and camp either at Álftavatn or Hvanngil. More on these alternatives below. 

Services at Hrafntinnusker: Drop toilets, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up. 

Price: 2000 ISK per person

The hut at Hrafntinnusker in early July.

 

Harsh camping conditions at Hrafntinnusker.

Alternative Options for Day 1:

If you’d like to combine the first two stages of the Laugavegur into one long day, this is definitely possible if you are prepared and start early. However, due to the nature of the steep climbs and possibility of snow-covered trails late in the day, we do not recommend combining these stages if you’re hiking from south to north. If hiking north to south, you can either hike to Álftavatn (24km) or continue on to Hvanngil (an additional 3.8km, or 27.8 km total). There are some pros and cons of each option. 

Álftavatn:
Pros: Closer (it’s already a long day). More services (see below). Beautiful setting on a very lovely lake. 

Cons: More crowded. Very exposed campground-could be unpleasant in poor weather. 

Hvangill:
Pros: Much smaller and less crowded than Álftavatn. You’ll begin the third stage of the hike with a head start since you’ll be 3.8 km closer to the next hut. 

Cons: Fewer services. There is a river crossing between Álftavatn and Hvanngil which might seem daunting at the end of a long day of walking-some people may prefer to tackle it with fresh legs on the next day. 

Day Two: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn (or Hvangill). 

Services at Álftavatn: Toilets, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, restaurant/bar selling hot meals, hot showers (500 ISK for 5 minutes), picnic tables. There are sinks very close to the camping area, while the bathrooms are slightly further away. 

Price: 2000 ISK per person. 

The restaurant/bar at Álftavatn.

 

Camping at Álftavatn.

 

Services at Hvangill: Toilets, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, warm showers (500 ISK for 5 minutes), shop selling beer, snacks, and hiking basics, semi-sheltered picnic table. 

Price: 2000 ISK per person.

Approaching the hut and campsite at Hvanngil.

 

Day Three: Álftavatn to Emstrur

The Emstrur Hut and campground are located in a lovely little valley alongside a pretty stream. The hut has some nice decks with great views and picnic tables that are accessible to campers. The camping area is located below the hut and is reached by descending down a rather long flight of stairs to the banks of the stream. Campers will need to climb back up the stairs to use the toilet facilities and sinks. 

Services at Emstrur: Toilets, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, warm showers (500 ISK for 5 minutes), shop selling beer, snacks, and hiking basics, picnic tables, clothesline. 

Price: 2000 ISK per person.

The hut and campsite at Emstrur.

Alternative Option for Day Three:

It is possible to complete stages three and four into another long day and make it to Þórsmörk at the end of your second day. We chose this option in order to take advantage of good weather and free up time to complete the Fimmvörðuháls stage. Plan for 9-11 hours of hiking to complete these stages in one day. 

Day Four: Emstrur to Þórsmörk

Upon nearing Þórsmörk, hikers will reach a junction in the trail with a sign that denotes three options for camping. The campgrounds are a few kilometers apart, so pay attention to which direction you want to head before setting off. 

Volcano Huts: This privately-run campground is located in the opposite direction of the other two camping options. If ending your hike in Þórsmörk, be sure to check with your bus service to ensure that they pick up from Volcano Huts, not just the Þórsmörk/Langidalur Campsite. 

Services at Volcano Huts: Indoor toilets, hot and cold water (safe for drinking), indoor cooking area, restaurant/bar, free wifi access at the main service building, shop selling snacks and hiking basics, trash and recycling. 

Price: 2600 ISK (includes access to hot showers, sauna, natural warm soaking pool, and wifi access). 

Þórsmörk/Langidalur Campsite: This campground is a bit more basic than Volcano Huts, but is still lovely nonetheless. It is run by the Icelandic Touring Association (Ferðafélag Íslands or FI for short), which operates all of the other huts and campsites along the Laugavegur up to this point and the facilities will likely feel familiar.  It is located on the riverbed and has plenty of nice grassy areas for pitching a tent. It is well-positioned for pickup if ending your hike in Þórsmörk, but it would also be a good option if you’re continuing on to Skogar. If you plan on completing the Fimmvörðuháls hike, you should definitely plan to camp either here or at the Básar Campground. 

Services at Þórsmörk/Langidalur: Toilets, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, warm showers (500 ISK for 5 minutes), shop selling beer, snacks, and hiking basics, picnic tables, sheltered area for cooking, trash and recycling. 

Price: 2000 ISK per person.  

The Þórsmörk/Langidalur Campsite and Hut at the end of the Laugavegur Trail.

 

Básar Campsite:  This sprawling campground is run by the Útivist Travel Association. You’ll have to walk another 1.5 km past the Þórsmörk/Langidalur campsite across the rocky riverbed to reach it, but you’ll have a head start if you’re hiking to Skogar the next day (which could be valuable since Fimmvörðuháls is a long hike). This campground doesn’t have a lot in the way of views, but it does offer nice facilities, sheltered campsites, and grassy pitches. 

Services at Básar: Indoor toilettes, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, picnic tables, hot shower (500 ISK), cell phone charging (500 ISK), BBQ area. 

Price: 1500 ISK per person + 300 ISK tax per tent. 

Conveniently located campsite at Básar.

 

Day Five: Þórsmörk to Skogar (the Fimmvörðuháls Trail)

The trail from Þórsmörk to Skogar is long and challenging, but the beautiful sights are incredibly rewarding. If you are committed to camping, you’ll need to complete the entire 25km (10-12 hours) hike in one day since there are no camping options along the way. If you would like to break it up into two days, you have the option of either staying at the Útivist-owned Fimmvörðuháls Hut or the more basic FI-owned Baldvinsskali Hut, both of which require advance reservations. Otherwise, if you complete the hike in one day, you’ll end at the impressive Skógafoss waterfall and right in the center of the Skogar Campground. Be warned that after being in the remote wilderness for the past few days, Skogar might feel like a bit of a zoo. The falls are a big destination for large tour buses, as well as individuals driving the famous Ring Road. You’ll know you’re getting close to the end of the hike when you start to see jean-clad tourists leaning precariously over the edges of cliffs with their selfie-sticks. You’ll hear all sorts of people and traffic noise late into the evening at the campsite, so ear plugs are a good idea. Because of the campground’s central location, non-campers frequently use the facilities. Expect to wait for the bathroom during the middle part of the day. If you can get past the crowds, you’ll find that Skogar is a pleasant place to camp, with grassy pitches and views of the falls from your tent. 

Services at Skogar: Indoor toilets, hot and cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, warm showers (300 ISK for 5 minutes), free cell phone charging (just ask the warden), picnic tables. There is also a more upscale restaurant/bar in the hotel/hostel nearby, as well as a more casual restaurant and a shop selling some souvenirs, camping equipment and snacks. There are a couple of other restaurants if you walk further down the road. 

Price: 1300 ISK per person. 

Waterfall views from the Skogar Campsite.

 

Many people are intimidated by the idea of  backpacking in Iceland, citing the prohibitive costs, tricky logistics, and harsh conditions. Camping along the Laugavegur Trail is the perfect way to see Iceland’s most beautiful sights without spending a fortune or getting caught in the tourist circuit. Hopefully our guide can help you plan out your best possible adventure in one of the most incredible landscapes on earth. Happy trails!

What’s Next?

If you’ve read our Guide above, you’re well on your way to having an incredible experience camping on the Laugavegur Trail. However, you still have lots of preparation before you’re truly ready! Be sure to read our entire series on the Laugavegur Trail to learn everything you’ll need to know to prepare for your trip!

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Update from the Trail: Iceland

Greetings from the Reykjavik Campground in Iceland! The first two segments of our trip of a lifetime/mini-retirement are in the books. It’s hard to believe it’s already been nearly two…

Greetings from the Reykjavik Campground in Iceland! The first two segments of our trip of a lifetime/mini-retirement are in the books. It’s hard to believe it’s already been nearly two weeks since we locked up our Boulder apartment and hit the road.  We spent a wonderful week in the Midwest visiting family and friends before hopping on an easy direct flight from Chicago to Reykjavik. We spent a night in this cozy capital before heading out to hike the Laugavegur trail in the south of the country. Before we get into the hike, quick aside about our first night in Reykjavik: 

When planning for an extended trip while trying to maintain a rather modest budget, we knew we needed to keep our lodging costs down.  We have managed to travel hack our way into a nice bounty of points and miles, but not nearly enough to cover five months of travel. Therefore, we created two guiding rules for strategically booking hotels using travel rewards.  

Rule #1: Maximize value. We tried to use the bulk of our rewards-fueled hotel stays in expensive places where we’d pay a pretty penny for accommodation if using cash. Lucky us, our Europe-heavy travel itinerary includes plenty of cities that fit the bill (pun intended). When traveling through southeast Asia, on the other hand, we will use cash for more of our accommodation since lodging is typically very reasonable in those parts. 

Rule #2: Hotels on travel days.  There is nothing better than finishing a long travel day with an easy check-in process (no fumbling in the dark to find the AirBnB lockbox or waking up the host), a hot shower, baggage storage options, and a clean bed.  We will happily rough it in our tent for most nights of our trip, but we are insanely grateful for the small luxuries of hotels when arriving somewhere new sleep-deprived and weary. 

After a very comfortable stay at the Reykjavik Hilton (early check in? Heck yes. Amazing breakfast buffet? Even better), we are feeling pretty swell about how The Rules have been working out. We spent a day exploring Reykjavik and running some pre-hike errands before hopping on a bus to Lannamanalugar, our starting destination for the  Laugavegur Trail, a 48-mile trek through rugged landscapes in the south of the country. 

Starting out on the Laugavegur Trail

The Laugavegur Trail is Iceland’s most popular and iconic long-distance trek. It is divided into four segments, each marked by a mountain hut and camping area at the finish. At the official end of the trail, there is the option to add on another day’s hike on the Fimmvorduhals Trail, which climbs up to pass between two glaciers and then descends into the small town of Skogar. Our plan was to combine the first two segments of the Laugavegur Trail on our first day to complete the entire thing and make it to Skogar in a total of four days. 

We arrived in Lannamanlugar in the afternoon with plans to camp there for the evening and then set off for our hike early(ish) the next morning.  Lannamanlugar is known for it’s amazing geothermal landscape, which is punctuated by otherworldly colors, random steam-spewing crevices, and some truly lovely hot springs. We almost talked ourselves into skipping the hot springs, considering the fact that we hadn’t brought swimsuits and didn’t want to haul around wet clothes in our packs for the next few days. Fortunately, Ian pulled the whole “It’s not everyday that you find yourself at some dope geothermal hot springs” card and I was quickly convinced. Us Coloradans would have preferred to soak in nude, but after a quick survey of the scene we determined that Iceland wasn’t ready for all that and opted to sacrifice one of our precious few pairs of underwear for the cause. Soaking in the hot springs, surrounded by dramatic mountains and dynamic colors in every direction was truly an unparalleled way to kick off our trek. We returned to a very chilly night in our tent before hitting the trail the next morning. 

The lovely hot springs at Landmannalugar.

We began Day 1 in good spirits. The initial uphill climb helped us thaw out a bit (did I mention that Iceland is a cold place for camping?) and the views blew us away from the start. Iceland is like no other place on Earth that we’ve ever been. The geothermal activity, volcanic landforms, vibrantly colored mountains, wide rivers, black sand deserts, and powerful waterfalls all come together to give this place a character that is completely unique and totally spectacular. The first day of hiking on a long-distance trek is always a bit of a euphoria-filled blur.  For example, we were so blissed out on our first day of the Tour du Mont Blanc that we missed an obvious turn and walked in the wrong direction for an hour before realizing it. On our first day of the West Highland Way, we stopped for a very long lunch (whisky included) thinking we were much closer to our stopping point than we actually were. On the Laugavegur, the trail really gave new meaning to the expression, “a surprise around every corner.” It seemed like every hill we crested or bend we rounded presented a completely new and wondrous landscape. Despite hiking for over eight hours, we finished feeling energized and totally stokey about the next day. Therefore, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that we decided to combine the next segments into another big day the following day. Why sit around and be cold at the campsite when we could spend the entire day exploring the trail? 

Emily doing her best to stay warm.

On Day 2, we packed up camp in damp conditions and a literally bone-chilling wind. One plus side of this weather is that it makes instant coffee taste like the elixir of life. Another positive was that although we had nearly perfect weather throughout the hike, we did at least get a little taste of Iceland’s moody dark side. We set off towards the next hut feeling a little stiff after the previous day’s efforts but totally excited for what the trail would bring. We did have some trepidation however, as we’d read that the biggest of our river crossings would occur on this stage of the hike.  For such an expensive country with otherwise impeccable infrastructure, Iceland seems curiously reluctant to build bridges over rivers. Both people and vehicles are routinely expected to ford sizable rivers if they would like to carry on towards their destination. The warden’s notes at the previous huts warned hikers to take caution crossing the Emstur River, and recent reports suggested the water could reach mid-thigh depths. We’d hoped we’d get an hour or two of walking behind us to warm up before crossing the icy water, but lo and behold, we met it within a few minutes of starting the day. For the second time this week in Iceland, we found ourselves stripping down to our underwear and stepping into the steely glacial waters. This time, however, there was no geothermal action to soften the blow. We forged into the icy, fast-moving currents, carefully choosing every step even though we just wanted to run to the other side and get out as fast as possible. Well, that was one wickedly efficient way to wake up in the morning. 

The rest of Day 2 was tremendously beautiful, but definitely more of a slog than Day 1, due to very long stretches through rocky desert and the fact that our bodies were starting to feel the miles a bit more. Still, we saw so many amazing sights, like the enormous canyon where two rivers-one slate gray and the other sepia toned-together hundreds of feet below us. Finally, we reached Þórsmörk, the technical end of the Laugavegur. We bought a ridiculously overpriced, but yet so necessary, Twix bar at the Þórsmörk campsite shop and then continued on another mile to the campsite at Basar where we’d be better positioned to start the next day’s big hike. Upon reaching camp, the sun had fully made an appearance and we enjoyed some very relaxing evening hours soaking up the endless daylight before putting on our sleeping masks and turning in for the night. 

The confluence of rivers on Day 2.

Day 3 brought more excellent sunny weather, and we knew we had to take advantage of it and bust out the last big day of walking before allowing ourselves a rest day. Today we would complete the Fimmvorduhals Trail.  Have you ever wanted to climb between two glaciers, see the youngest mountains on earth, witness recent volcanic eruptions where black ash meets white snow, crest a mountain pass to see the ocean in the distance, or gaze at 20 waterfalls all in one day? Well we never knew we wanted all those things either until we hiked this trail, but it turns out that it definitely doesn’t suck. You’ve got to work for your views though.  The trail included some ridiculously steep climbs, a mildly sketchy exposed section, and lots of hiking through slushy snow fields. Technically, today was supposed to be way harder in terms of challenge than the previous day, but we both felt significantly better. It was one of those all-around perfect days in nature.  

Cascading falls on the way to Skogar.

Reaching the end of the hike was an interesting experience. Skogar, where the Fimmvorduhals terminates, is a huge draw for tourists due to its proximity to the main highway and its very impressive waterfall, known as Skogafoss.  To us, after being on the lightly trafficked trail for the past few days, it felt like a total zoo. Giant busses dropped off camera-wielding tourists who aggressively fought their way into position for the perfect instagram shot.  It was such an entertaining spectacle that we had no other choice to embrace it and relish the experience. The campground was smack dab in the center of the action, so we enjoyed an endless stream of premium people-watching from the comfort of our tent. The waterfall views were pretty sweet too. Although we appreciated Skogar for what it was worth, we realized pretty quickly that we would struggle hang around at the campground for the nearly 48 hours until our bus was scheduled to pick us up (since we finished a day early). Fortunately, we were able to change our tickets and decided to make the most of our extra time by heading back to Reykjavik, which is how we ended up at the lovely campground where I began this post. We walked around the city for quite awhile yesterday before enjoying a picnic feast for dinner. Soon, we will head off to Chamonix, where we’ll spend a few days in town before beginning our next trek, the Haute Route.  We’ll spend nearly two weeks traversing the Alps as we make our way from Chamonix to Zermatt, sleeping in our tent all but a couple of nights. As we wrap up in Iceland, it is easy to get caught up in looking ahead to what’s next. Sure, that excitement is certainly part of the fun, but we have to keep reminding ourselves to try to stay in the moment. We’ve been planning this thing for so long and already the days are getting ticked off the itinerary at a remarkable pace. It’s amazing how time moves when you wake up every day and get to do exactly the thing you want to be doing. It has been an incredible experience to be in a given moment and realize that you honestly don’t want to be any other place or in any other time. What a rare and fortunate feeling. Until the next post, we’ll do our best to keep soaking it all up. 

All smiles after the Laugavegur Trail!

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