Iceland’s Laugavegur Trail is on many hikers bucket list. The trek brings you to some of Iceland’s most beautiful scenery while also helping you escape from the tour bus crowds…
Iceland’s Laugavegur Trail is on many hikers bucket list. The trek brings you to some of Iceland’s most beautiful scenery while also helping you escape from the tour bus crowds that have become all too common at many of the country’s top sights. One question we frequently hear from readers who are interested in hiking the Laugavegur Trail is how we went about navigating while on the trail. Did we bring maps? Was the route hard to follow? How hard was it to find the huts and campgrounds along the Laugavegur Trail?
Finding your way on the Laugavegur Trail shouldn’t cause any headaches!
Rest assured that with the proper tools and resources, navigating on the Laugavegur Trail should be a straightforward endeavor. In this post we’ll explain exactly how we navigated on the trail, including how we utilized GPS on our phones to make navigating a breeze and also provide some resources for those who would like to do the same. Let’s get started!
Should I bring a paper map on the Laugavegur Trail?
The short answer is yes. You should always carry a paper map on any backcountry expedition. While we chose to rely on GPS data loaded into a navigation app on our phone, a paper map is an essential item to have as a backup. Technology has done wonders to make trail navigation easy and accessible, and we highly recommend you utilize it to help navigate on your own trip. However, if that iPhone you brought runs out of battery or you drop it in a puddle, you’ll be glad you had your handy paper maps to rely on.
At a minimum, we recommend carrying the Island Serkot 04 map, as it provides a useful overview of the Laugavegur Trail and surrounding areas. A weatherproof carrying case like this one wouldn’t hurt to have either.
Once in Iceland, you’ll also be able to find maps with much better detail on the Laugavegur Trail, which we would also suggest picking up. You’re best bet in Reykjavik is to stop by one of the many outdoor stores. They should have several maps available.
One of our favorite tools to utilize on long treks, including the Laugavegur Trail, is an offline GPS map of the entire route and surrounding terrain. It makes on trail navigation incredible easy and the set-up is a breeze. You simply download the necessary GPS files on to your phone and open your chosen GPS app (more on that below).
You can then easily view your location, the trail, huts, campgrounds, and more along the Laugavegur. We utilized this frequently on our own hike to know how far we had hiked at any given point, check that we were still on the trail, and know how close we were to our stopping point for the day.
We think this is far and away the most convenient way to navigate on the Laugavegur Trail and want to help you successfully utilize offline mobile maps on your Laugavegur trek. Keep reading below to learn more about how your phone can work as a GPS and how we can help you feel confident using this navigation method.
Using your phone as a GPS
Modern smartphones are incredible machines. You can send email, video chat with someone halfway around the world, and check your bank account all with a swipe of your finger. Another great feature of smartphones is their ability to act as a GPS device. You regularly use this feature when navigating with Google Maps, Apple Maps, or other mapping software that comes standard on most phones these days.
The problem is your phone relies on having an internet connection in order to download the background mapping data that needs to be displayed for you to know where you are. You see, the GPS in your phone only provides a location point, but the really valuable data is the background map that shows the various streets, businesses and even traffic conditions around you. Without an internet connection to show the background map, your Google Maps app will look something like this:
Not a very effective way to navigate
Solving the background map problem
While the issue of a background map not displaying isn’t typically a problem in cities or towns where ample cell phone service (and thus internet connectivity) exists, it can be a huge problem when you’re, say, crossing a snow field on the Laugavegur Trail without service. The solution? GPS Navigation apps that allow for downloadable background maps. These apps allow you to select a predefined area, in our case the entirety of the Laugavegur Trail, and download the background map to your phone.
This allows you to access the map data without a cell phone connection and still know exactly where you are! Even though your phone is not connected to cell service or internet, the GPS will still work without incurring any “roaming” charges. Pretty cool, huh? I’ll show you exactly how we did this for the Laugavegur Trail below.
Laugavegur Trail maps – What we provide
For those looking for Laugavegur Trail GPS resources, we offer a complete mapping digital download for just $4.99. Included you’ll get access to both .gpx and .kml files for the entire Laugavegur route along with all of the huts and campgrounds on the trail.
This data will give you the confidence to know exactly where your next hut or campground is and exactly how to get there.
These custom maps can be used on Android and Apple devices and works with both paid and free GPS navigation apps.
There are dozens of GPS apps that will work for navigating on the Laugavegur Trail, however, we have a few favorites. We recommend utilizing either Gaia GPS or Maps.me for your offline navigating. The main difference between the two apps is that Maps.me is free to download and use, but has limited base maps. On the other hand, Gaia GPS requires a $19.99 annual subscription to use but has superior offline base maps and more robust navigational tools. Check out the comparison below to see how a specific section of the Laugavegur Trail displays in each of the apps.
Comparison of Maps.me and Gaia GPS for the Laugavegur Trail
As you can see, Maps.me can easily display the route as well as campground markers along the way. However, the same section of trail displayed in Gaia GPS gives the user much more information such as adjacent trails, topographic lines, and elevation shading. For this reason, we highly recommend you invest the $20 to use Gaia GPS, although we certainly understand those who prefer to use a free option. Instructions for downloading and accessing the GPS data for the Laugavegur for both Maps.me and Gaia GPS are included below.
Gaia GPS for the Laugavegur Trail
The instructions below provide a step-by-step guide for downloading and accessing the custom Laugavegur Trail GPS data we’ve created in Gaia GPS.
Step One – Download the Laugavegur Trail GPS file
When you purchase our Laugavegur Trail GPS download, you’ll get a link for the GPS file included in your order confirmation email. You’ll want to be sure to open the email and download the .KML file directly onto your phone (as opposed to on another device) to simplify the process. After completing the download you’ll be prompted to open the file in Gaia GPS, which you should do.
Gaia GPS will then import the data and you should see the Laugavegur Trail route and waypoints for the huts/campgrounds displayed on the map.
Success! You’ve imported the Laugavegur Trail GPS data in Gaia GPS.
Step Two – Choose your map source Next, you’ll want to select your base map. This will be the background map that you will eventually download and use to navigate while trekking, even without cell phone service. There are tons of background maps available for download, but we highly recommend the “Outdoor” layer for those hiking the Laugavegur Trail. To choose this map source, simply select the layers icon in the top right corner and then select ‘Outdoors’.
Step Three – Navigate to the Laugavegur Trail and download your background map Once you have selected the “Outdoor” base map, you’ll need to download the entire area of the Laugavegur Trail. Remember, without downloading this data you’ll have no way to know your exact location on the trail when you don’t have cell phone service. To download the map background data, follow the steps below:
Navigate to the area of the Laugavegur in Gaia GPS
Select the ‘Create’ button (circle with a plus sign in the upper right hand corner)
Select ‘Download Map’
Draw a rectangle with your finger that encompasses the entire Laugavegur route
Set the ‘Max Zoom’ to 17
Name your map ‘Laugavegur Trail’ and select ‘Save’
Allow the download to complete and you’re done! (you’ll want to be connected to WiFi for this)
That’s it! Now you’re all set to navigate on the Laugavegur like a pro with an offline GPS map in Gaia GPS. You can now zoom in on specific sections, view trail segments, and see all of the huts and campgrounds along the route!
Using the Gaia GPS app on the trail
The final step to navigating like a pro on the Laugavegur is to the able to successfully use Gaia GPS on the trail. To view your current location, simply select the location button on the top menu. At this point your phone will activate its GPS, and (providing you have a fairly clear view of the sky, which should be no problem in Iceland) in a few moments it will show you exactly where you are by displaying a yellow arrow. Use this whenever you want to see how far you’ve gone, how much further you have left until your next stop, or if a fork in the road has you questioning the correct way. NOTE: The yellow arrow shows you where you are, but will not necessarily point towards the direction you are actually facing. This is important to remember when you are orienting yourself!
Maps.me for the Laugavegur Trail
The instructions below show a step-by-step guide for downloading and accessing the custom Laugavegur Trail GPS data we’ve created in Maps.me. Maps.me is an excellent free navigation app that allows you to download offline background data. As we noted above, downloading background data is the the key to successfully utilizing GPS to navigate on the Laugavegur. The primary shortcoming of using Maps.me for navigation while trekking is the limited base map data. You won’t find any topographic lines, terrain shading, or other helpful features. However, we know that many trekkers will be just fine with Maps.me and you can’t beat the price! Here is your step-by-step guide to utilizing our Laugavegur GPS data with Maps.me:
Step One – Download the Tour du Mont Blanc GPS file
When you purchase our Laugavegur Trail GPS download, you’ll get a link for the GPS file included in your order confirmation email. You’ll want to be sure to open the email and download the .KML file directly onto your phone to simplify the process. After completing the download you’ll be prompted to open the file in Maps.me, which you’ll want to go ahead and do.
After opening the GPS file with Maps.me, the app will navigate to your current location and will also display a message stating that your bookmarks have successfully been loaded. You’ll need to move the map from your current location to Iceland and verify that you see the track and waypoints displayed.
Step Two – Download the Laugavegur Trail background maps
Once you have successfully loaded the Laugavegur GPS data, you’ll need to download the entire area of the trail as a base map in Maps.me. Remember, without downloading this data you’ll have no way to know where exactly you are on the trail. To download the background map data in Maps.me, follow the steps below:
Navigate to the area of the Laugavegur Trail in Maps.me
Zoom in on the trail until the app prompts you to download a map region
You’ll need to download the ‘Iceland’ map to cover the entire Laugavegur Trail.
Verify that you’ve downloaded the required base map by navigating to the ‘Download Maps’ menu.
Once you’ve checked that the Iceland map has been successfully downloaded you’re all done!
Verify that the ‘Iceland’ map is downloaded.
That’s it! You’re all set to navigate on the Tour du Mont Blanc like a pro with an offline GPS map utilizing Maps.me. You can now zoom in on specific sections, view trail segments, and see all of the campgrounds along the route!
A note on battery life
One of the easiest ways for the app-navigation method to go awry is for your phone battery to die. I recommend two strategies to help prevent an unexpected dead battery from sabotaging your trip. The first is to ensure that you always exit the app before locking your phone. This will prevent the app from continually locating you, and thus draining your battery. You can also keep your phone on “airplane mode” to prevent it from wasting battery life while searching for cell service.
The second way to prevent a dead battery from causing problems is to carry a backup battery system. These are relatively inexpensive and are worth their weight in gold when you find yourself with a dying battery. I like the Anker PowerCore 20100, but any decent option should do.
Want more Laugavegur content? Keep reading!
Be sure and check out all of our Laugavegur Trail resources below to help plan your perfect trip!
The Laugavegur Trail is one of the most spectacular trails in the world. While completing this epic trek, you’ll visit stunning waterfalls, soak in geothermal hot springs, and meet countless friendly…
The Laugavegur Trail is one of the most spectacular trails in the world. While completing this epic trek, you’ll visit stunning waterfalls, soak in geothermal hot springs, and meet countless friendly people. We truly believe it is the best way to see some of Iceland’s most stunning landscapes.
The Laugavegur Trail’s stunning landscapes.
Even though our Laugavegur Trail adventure turned out to be one of our all time favorite experiences, there was a LOT that we wished we’d known before setting off. Now that we’ve completed it, what recommendations do we have for those trekkers eager to tackle Iceland’s most famous hike? To make it easy, we’ve distilled our experiences into ten key takeaways.
Here are our 10 Essentials for hiking the Laugavegur Trail:
We hiked the Laugavegur Trail in early July expecting balmy, warm, summer weather. Think again! While we were extremely lucky that we didn’t have much rain on our trek, the temperature was WAY colder than we had anticipated. At several points, we were so cold that we found ourselves wearing every piece of clothing we had, rain pants included! This was especially problematic given that we were camping and couldn’t warm up in the huts at night.
It gets COLD in Iceland!
Our advice? Bring an extra mid-layer to wear under your jacket (which should be a packable and lightweight down jacket like this one) along with long-underwear or leggings that you can layer under your hiking pants. In addition, you’ll definitely want to pack gloves, a warm hat, and a cozy pair of socks. Trust us, you’ll be glad you did!
We were fortunate to have brought both of these items along for the Laugavegur Trail and would highly encourage you to do the same. Summer in Iceland is beautiful, but that midnight sun isn’t always appreciated when you’re trying to get some sleep after eight hours of hiking. For this reason we strongly recommend that you pack a trusty sleeping mask in your pack. These can be purchased inexpensively (we like this Alaska Bear version) and are worth every penny!
The midnight sun in full effect.
In addition to the sleeping mask, ear plugs are essential on the Laugavegur. It goes without saying that you’ll want these if you are planning to sleep in huts, as you’re almost guaranteed to have a snorer nearby. However, we think ear plugs are essential for campers, too. Many of the campgrounds along the Laugavegur can be quite cramped with only a few feet between tents. That means you’ll almost certainly be treated to your own symphony of snores at least one night on the trail!
Do yourself a favor and be sure to pack some nice, silicone ear plugs (we love these ones from Mack’s) to ensure you can get a restful night’s sleep.
3. Be prepared for all four seasons (sometimes in the same day!)
The hiking season on the Laugavegur Trail runs from mid-June through the end of August. This might lead you to believe that you’ll be hiking in lovely, warm, sunny weather. While that certainly could be the case for a couple of hours, you’d be extremely lucky to have that type of weather for your entire trek. In reality, the weather in Iceland can change in an instant and you should be prepared for sun, wind, rain, and even snow at any point along the trail and on any day of the year.
You can still expect to encounter lots of snow on the trail in July!
Practically, this means that you’ll need to have versatile clothing items that can be worn in a variety of conditions, along with good rain and wind gear. For clothing, we really like merino wool items that can be layered together (see our Laugavegur Trail packing list for specific ideas) along with a good down jacket. For wind and rain, a packable rain jacket and good pair of rain pants will be worth their weight in gold should the weather turn foul on your trek. Anything with GoreTex fabric will be great for the Laugavegur Trail, and we specifically love these ultra-lightweight rain jackets from Outdoor Research and dependable rain pants from Colombia.
4. Treat your feet
Of all the gear you plan to bring, the single biggest impact on how you feel on the trail will come from how you treat your feet. This advice rings true for any hike, long or short, but it’s especially salient for treks in variable weather like the Laugavegur. We recommend a waterproof pair of hiking boots or trail running shoes. Before your trek, your shoes/boots should be broken in with at least 30 miles of hikingwith a weighted backpack. Match your boots with a pair of high-quality merino wool hiking socks and you’ll be as ready as you can be for everything the trail will throw at you!
You’ll encounter a variety of trail conditions on the Laugavegur Trail.
For boots or trail runners, we recommend trying on a wide variety of pairs at your local outdoor store to see what fits well and feels good. Be sure to bring your backpack with some weight in it to get a sense of how a particular pair of boots feels with a heavy pack on.
For socks, we highly recommend using a pair that’s designed specifically for hiking and made out of merino wool. Our favorite brand is Darn Tough, which makes a breathable, comfortable, and very odor-resistant hiking sock. You can bring a few pairs (2-3 should be fine) and wash them as needed along the way.
5. Plan on camping if you prefer flexibility
The popularity of the Laugavegur Trail means that advance bookings are essential for those staying in huts along the route. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as you’ll know exactly how far you need to go each day and you’ll have assurance that you’ll have a cozy bed to sleep in each night. However, you’ll also give up any ability to change your plans. If the weather is bad, you twist an ankle, or you’re simply hiking faster than you expected, you’ll have have no option but to continue on to the hut you reserved.
How can you get out of this conundrum? Pack your own tent.
Camping will also give you some incredible views!
Every stop along the Laugavegur Trail includes campsites that do not require advance reservations. Therefore, camping will give you the flexibility to stop at whichever point makes the most sense, given the weather and how you are feeling. We ended up hiking faster than we were expecting and loved having the ability to keep going past the campsite we had originally planned on staying at in order to get a head start on the next day. Camping isn’t for everyone, but for those interested in having the most flexibility possible, it is definitely the way to go.
Despite the trail’s remoteness, getting to and from the Laugavegur Trail is actually quite easy. There are frequent and convenient bus services that will drop you off in Landmannalaugar and pick you up in Þórsmörk (or Skogar, for those also hiking the Fimmvörðuháls Trail). We highly recommend utilizing the Reykjavik Excursions Hiker Pass service, although there are also several other companies providing transfers to the hiker from Reykjavik.
Be sure you’ve arranged transport to the start of the Laugavegur Trail!
However, the problem is that the bus services are often fully booked in the peak summer months (specifically July and August). If you simply show up at the bus station the day of your trek, there’s a good chance you’ll be out of luck with no way to get to the trail. Given this fact, you’ll want to be sure you’ve reserved your transport to and from the trail well in advance of arriving in Iceland. Ideally, you should have your service booked two months before starting your trek. Trust us, you’ll be glad to know you’ve got a ride back to Reykjavik after you’ve just hiked 33 miles!
Iceland is known for many things: stunning scenery, remote wilderness, soaring volcanoes, and…..for being incredibly expensive. As far as Icelandic adventures go, the Laugavegur Trail can actually be quite budget friendly (be sure to check out our Laugavegur Trail budget article for more information), especially for those willing to camp and cook their own meals. Still, there will undoubtedly be plenty of things you’ll need to buy that will be shockingly expensive.
Trust us, food will be more expensive on the trail!
One of the easiest ways to lessen the impact on your wallet (and to ensure you’re fully prepared for your trek) is to bring food from home. Chances are, you already have a good sense of where to find backpacking meals, muesli, energy bars, and other hiking food in your own hometown. Do yourself a favor and stock up on everything you’ll need before coming to Iceland (just be sure it’s all packaged food – fresh food can get you into trouble at customs!) You’ll not only save yourself from the extremely high food costs in Iceland, but you’ll also save yourself the time and hassle of having to assemble all of your meals once you arrive in Reykjavik.
8. Be prepared for river crossings
The Laugavegur Trail is a great trek for hikers of all ability levels. For the most part, the terrain is easy to navigate, the trail well-marked, and services are available at frequent intervals along the way, thanks to the excellent hut system. However, there are several rivers that will need to be crossed without the aid of a bridge, and these can be quite intimidating. Being prepared for these will make your Laugavegur trek much more enjoyable, not to mention much safer.
River crossing after Álftavatn. Be prepared for lots of these!
To begin with, you MUST bring a pair of shoes specifically to wear when crossing rivers. Attempting to go barefoot will almost certainly result in a dangerous fall into icy cold water, something you most definitely want to avoid. We recommend bringing a pair of sturdy sandals (we prefer Chacos) or even an old pair of running shoes that you don’t mind getting soaked. Either way, they must be sturdy (no flip-flops) and relatively light to carry.
Additionally, you should always check with the wardens at each hut you pass to get the latest information on any upcoming river crossings. They’ll be able to give you an idea of the water levels (which can reach waist deep), as well as provide guidance on the best place to cross. Generally speaking, the widest part of a river is the best place to cross, as it will be the shallowest. Additionally, always be sure to unbuckle your backpack’s hipbelt when crossing a river, as you want to have the ability to easily remove it should you fall in the water. Finally, we find that a good pair of trekking poles provide welcome stability when crossing a fast-moving river. We recommend these Black Diamond poles for their durability and affordable price tag.
9. Bring plenty of cash
You won’t find any ATMs along the Laugavegur Trail, and while many of the huts do have credit card machines they run on solar power, which can be spotty at best. Rather than take your chances with the Icelandic weather, we recommend carrying enough cash to last the entirety of your trek. The amount you’ll need will vary significantly from hiker to hiker, but you can use our Laugavegur Trail budgeting article to get a sense for how much you should carry.
No ATMs in sight!
10. Leave no trace
Our last essential item for trekking the Laugavegur Trail should go without saying, but we’re going to say it anyway: please utilize Leave No Trace practices on your trip. Iceland has an extremely fragile environment, and it is everyone’s responsibility to ensure that it can continue to be enjoyed by generations to come.
There are a few Leave No Trace practices that are of particular importance on the Laugavegur Trail. These include packing out all of your trash, not hiking off-trail, and choosing not to wild camp, no matter how tempting the spot may be. Remember that you are just one of thousands of people who trek this incredible trail every year, and we all have a right to enjoy it in it’s most pristine condition.
Conclusion
Taking these 10 Essentials to heart will go a long way in ensuring you have an unforgettable time on Iceland’s Laugavegur Trail. We think this trek is hands-down the best way to experience the incredible landscapes of Iceland and highly recommend it to anyone who wants to enjoy a few days in the wilderness in this magnificent country.
For more resources to help you plan the perfect trip, be sure to check out all of our Laugavegur Trail posts:
The Laugavegur Trail and Fimmvörðuháls Trail offer the best of Icelandic trekking. Stunning waterfalls, brooding volcanoes, geothermal hot springs, powerful rivers, and deep canyons are just a few of the…
The Laugavegur Trail and Fimmvörðuháls Trail offer the best of Icelandic trekking. Stunning waterfalls, brooding volcanoes, geothermal hot springs, powerful rivers, and deep canyons are just a few of the wonders you’ll discover on these hikes. Traversing this spectacular region by foot is one of the best ways to experience the incredible diversity of landscapes that define Iceland. This beauty combined with easy accessibility make the Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trails two of the most popular hiking destinations in Iceland. Read on to learn how to plan for these epic treks!
The Laugavegur Trail connects the Landmannalaugar hot springs to the Þórsmörk (pronounced Thorsmork) river valley. The 55-kilometer (34-mile) trail crosses a wide diversity of landscapes, from rugged, volcanic peaks to vast black sand deserts to dayglow green hillsides. Many hikers opt to extend their hike by taking the Fimmvörðuháls Trail, which connects Þórsmörk and Skogar via a very difficult 15-mile trek. While the two trails are technically separate, they can be easily combined into a longer, 48-mile hike. The Laugavegur is traditionally completed in the southbound direction, but it is very possible to walk in the opposite direction. There is a network of mountain huts along the trail that provide walkers with stopping points at regular intervals. Camping is also permitted outside every hut.
How long does it take to hike the Laugavegur Trail?
The Laugavegur Trail can be walked in 2 – 4 days depending on your hiking ability, pace preferences, and weather conditions. If you’re interested in adding on the Fimmvörðuháls Trail, plan on an additional 1 – 2 days of walking, plus an extra 978 meters of elevation gain (3,209 feet) and 24 kilometers (15 miles) of distance. Keep in mind that snow crossings and/or inclement weather can impact your hiking pace.The itineraries provided later in this post give you a sense of the possibilities. Also, be sure to check out our interactive map and elevation profile for the route to get a comprehensive understanding of all of your options!
When to hike the Laugavegur Trail
The weather in Iceland can be extremely harsh. No matter when you go, expect cold, wet, and windy conditions for a least some parts of your trek and pack accordingly. We hiked in early July and had great weather throughout, although it was still very cold at times. Even though it was peak season, it wasn’t overly crowded on the trail if we got an early start. With the right gear (check out our packing list for more on this topic), hikers can typically complete the walk from mid-June through early September. Make sure to always check with the hut wardens for the latest conditions and never attempt to hike through unsafe weather.
June: This is considered “early summer” in Iceland, meaning there will typically be a significant amount of snow remaining on the trail. It will still be quite cold, especially in the first part of the month. If you plan on hiking in June, be sure to check with the huts in advance, as some don’t open until the end of the month. Also be prepared to pack crampons and know how to use them.
July: This is peak season for the Laugavegur. Hikers will enjoy nearly 24 hours of daylight, and relatively milder weather (although snowstorms and bitter cold are possible any time of year). Expect more crowds on the trail, and be sure to reserve in advance if you plan on staying in huts.
August: The first half of the month sees continued mild conditions and busy trails. During this time, the trail will be at its clearest in terms of snow, although large patches remain throughout the year. As the month wears on, the days get shorter and colder. The huts typically close for the season by the second week of September.
You can still expect to encounter lots of snow on the trail in July!
How difficult is the Laugavegur Trail?
As far as long-distance hiking trails go, the Laugavegur is very approachable in terms of difficulty. There are several factors that impact the challenge of this hike, including the distance covered in each day (see our itineraries for more on this), the weight of your backpack (it will be much larger if you choose to camp), the direction you hike in (there is significantly more uphill walking if you trek from south to north), and the weather and trail conditions. Therefore, someone carrying camping gear and hiking northbound in two days will have a much different experience than someone staying in huts, heading southbound, and completing their trek in four days. Most reasonably fit hikers with some trekking experience will have no problem completing the Laugavegur in three days.
River Crossings: You will encounter several river crossings along the Laugavegur Trail. These can very in depth from ankle deep all the way up to your waist depending on the time of year, recent rainfall, and weather conditions. We can’t stress enough that you need to check with the wardens at each hut about the current condition of the rivers, and always cross in the designated areas. Also, you’ll want to bring a pair of sturdy sandals or other water shoes to make these crossing. Flip-flops will be pulled right off your feet by the swift currents and walking across barefoot is a dangerous endeavor.
River crossing after Álftavatn. Be prepared for lots of these!
Which direction to hike the Laugavegur Trail
We hiked the Laugavegur from north to south and we’d certainly recommend traveling in this direction if you want to avoid some very long climbs and increase the chances of having the wind at your back. If you decide to walk from south to north, expect a more challenging trek and plan for longer days on the trail. The “traditional” direction to hike is from north to south, but don’t expect to have the trail all to yourself if you go in the opposite direction. We saw several dozen hikers traveling northbound each day while we were out there.
Weather
If it hasn’t become clear from the previous sections of this post, Icelandic weather should not be taken lightly. Whiteout snow storms can occur any time of the year on the Laugavegur, as can gale force winds and freezing temperatures. It is imperative that hikers check the weather conditions before setting out. The easiest way to stay up to date on the weather is to talk to the wardens at the huts. Weather updates are usually posted outside, but you can also ask the warden for more information. If they advise you not to hike in the conditions, be sure to listen to them! Additionally, the Icelandic Met Office’s website provides quality forecasts for wind, precipitation, and temperature in specific areas.
The Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trails feature an excellent system of mountain huts and campsites along the routes. Most of these are run by Ferðafélag Íslands (FI), which is the Icelandic Touring Association. Additionally, there are private campgrounds and huts located at Þórsmörk and the Fimmvörðuskáli Hut (along the Fimmvörðuháls Trail), as well as a privately-run hostel and hotel located at Skogar.
The mountain huts along the Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trails provide basic communal sleeping quarters (bring your own sleeping bag), cooking facilities (you’ll need to bring your own food), bathrooms and showers (with the exception of Hrafntinnusker, which does not have showers) and are staffed by very knowledgeable wardens. Additionally, the huts have small shops carrying some basic food items and trekking essentials. If you’re planning to stay in the huts along the Laugavegur Trail advance bookings are essential as the huts fill up quickly! You can make your reservations here: Laugavegur Trail Hut Reservations.
All of the huts along the Laugavegur Trail cost 9,000 ISK per night, while the Fimmvörðuháls / Baldvinsskáli hut costs 7,000 ISK per night.
Looking down on the hut at Hrafntinnusker along the Laugavegur Trail.
Camping: In addition to the excellent hut system, camping is allowed at all the huts along the Laugavegur Trail. The campsites do not require any advance reservations and cost 2,000 ISK per night. We always recommend camping as it provides an added layer of flexibility and an escape from the sometimes crowded huts! For an in-depth guide on camping check out our Guide to Camping on the Laugavegur Trail.
Please note that you must camp in the designated campsites! Wild camping is not permitted in Iceland.
Camping at Álftavatn
Food and Drink
With the exception of the restaurants at Alftavatn and Thorsmork (at the hut operated by Volcano Huts), there is nowhere to get a hot meal along the trail. You’ll find only a very limited and very expensive inventory of supplies for sale at some of the huts along the trail. The provisions vary from hut to hut, but typically include candy bars, beer and soda, chips, and sometimes instant noodles. Most hikers will find it necessary to carry a camp stove and cooking equipment. You should plan on stocking up on food, stove fuel, and provisions for your entire trek before leaving Reykjavik.
There is clean drinking water available at all of the huts along the Laugavegur. We recommend filling up for the entire day before setting out, as water sources along the trail can be unreliable and/or unsafe.
Getting to and from the Laugavegur Trail
The best way to get to and from the Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trails is to utilize Reykjavik Excursions’ Iceland on Your Own Hiker’s Pass. The Hiker’s Pass provides walkers with transportation to the start of the Laugavegur trail as well as back to Reykjavik from the finish. You can take as much time as you need to complete the hike and can be picked up from any of the three main access points on the Laugavegur: Landmannalaugar, Þórsmörk, and Skogar (for those also completing the Fimmvörðuháls). The cost as of 2019 is 14,000 ISK and the bus picks up at the Reykjavik Campground as well as the BSI bus terminal.
Reykjavik Excursions provides easy access to and from the Laugavegur Trail.
Wayfinding
The Laugavegur Trail is relatively well-marked. Trail signs are located at all major junctions and intervals, with distances to the next hut provided in kilometers. In clear conditions, it is easy to navigate along the trail. However, storms, snow cover, fog, and other issues can make it frighteningly easy to lose your way. It is essential to carry a good map. Additionally, we recommend turning your smartphone into a GPS device, using an application like Gaia GPS or Maps.me. This will allow you to see your precise location, as well as the overall trail map, all without using cell service. This post explains how to set your phone up to work as a GPS for the Tour du Mont Blanc hike, but the same method could be used for the Laugavegur.
A helpful trail sign near a difficult section of the Fimmvörðuháls.
Budgeting and Money
There’s no way around it- Iceland is an extremely expensive country. While you will be able to mitigate a ton of travel expenses by hiking (free entertainment), camping or staying in huts (cheaper than a hotel), and bringing your own food, you can still expect high prices for all of the necessary aspects of your Laugavegur trek. The mountain huts typically don’t accept credit cards and there are no ATM’s along the route, so plan on bringing enough cash to cover all of your expenses for the entirety of your trek.
Some people (us included!) purchase food supplies at home and bring them to Iceland to avoid having to pay for expensive items at the grocery store on arrival. Specific rules may vary depending on your country of origin, but visitors are typically allowed to bring in small quantities of sealed, packaged foods such as trail mix, instant noodles, energy bars, and coffee packets.
Hiking in the freezing, blowing rain (commonplace on the Laugavegur) can be downright miserable if you’re not prepared. Furthermore, if things get soaked in a heavy rain (such as base layers or your sleeping bag), it will be hard to get them dry again for the remainder of your trek. Good quality waterproof items will keep you comfortable and warm, while also protecting the items in your backpack so you can put on a cozy, dry change of clothes when you’re done hiking for the day.
Finally, don’t even consider hiking the Laugavegur without a reliable pack cover. Many newer packs come with one built in, but if your doesn’t, check out this Sea to Summit one. These pack covers have extra strong elastic and a well-designed strap to keep them in place (and your stuff dry), even in high winds and heavy downpours.
Warm clothes
No matter the time of year that you hike the Laugavegur, it is very likely that you’ll be wearing a jacket and long pants for the majority of your trek. Therefore, you’re going to want warm layers that are comfortable and lightweight. This Patagonia jacket is unbeatable when it comes to warmth, packability, and weight. It’s one of our all-time favorite pieces of backpacking gear. Additionally, if you’re looking for a great pair of quick-drying, flexible, and stylish hiking pants, check out Prana’s Brion (men’s) and Briann (women’s) pants.
Eye mask and ear plugs
If you plan on sleeping in the huts, you’ll want to be prepared for the crampedcozy sleeping arrangements that are common on the Laugavegur. Even if you’re camping, you might end up close enough to hear your neighbor’s thundering snores or late-night pillow talk. Good quality sleep can be hard to come by on the trail, especially with 24 hours of daylight, but it is vital for ensuring your body recovers after long days of trekking. We have found that these two small things make a huge difference when it comes to getting a good night’s rest.
We love this silky, adjustable eye mask because it does a great job blocking out light while still being super comfortable. In terms of ear plugs, we swear by these Mack’s silicone ones. They are way more effective than the foam kind, and they also stay in place much better. Add in these two things and we promise you’ll sleep much more soundly!
Good Sleeping Bag
Another thing that can derail your rest and recovery on the Laugavegur? Being too cold to sleep. If you’ve never experienced this phenomenon while camping, count yourself lucky (or maybe just smart and well-prepared). Even though the sun stays up all night in the peak summer season, the temperature still drops significantly at night. If you are camping, make sure you pack a sleeping bag that is rated to 15° Fahrenheit or less. We used the Marmot Trestles 15 and stayed cozy and warm every night. If you’re sleeping in the huts (which are heated), you can bring a lighter bag (30°F), but you’ll still need to bring your own bag as there is no bedding provided.
Shoes for river crossings(sturdy sandals or other water shoes work best)
You’ll need to complete several major river crossings while hiking the Laugavegur. Depending on the time of year, the water levels can range from waist deep to knee deep. Regardless, expect the water to be shockingly cold and very fast-moving. You absolutely need to wear sturdy shoes when crossing- no flip flops or bare feet!
Without sturdy footwear, you will greatly increase your chances of losing your balance and putting yourself in a situation that is unpleasant at best and very dangerous at worst. While you can cross in your hiking shoes, most walkers prefer to use water shoes so they don’t have to wear cold, wet shoes for the remainder of the day. We are huge fans of Chacos sandals for their comfort and support, and they work great for river crossings. Plus, strap them on the outside of your pack afterwards and they’ll be dry in no time!
Whether you are camping or staying in the huts, you will not be able to charge your electronics at any point along the Laugavegur Trail until you reach Thorsmork. Only two of the three lodging options in Thorsmork provide electronics charging (Volcano Huts and Utivist Basar). Those continuing on the Fimmvorduhals Trail will also be able to charge at the Skogar campground or hostel. It’s a good idea to bring along a portable battery pack or solar panel to ensure you can use your phone for photos and GPS purposes throughout your trek.
Cell Phone Service
The Laugavegur Trail is one of the rare, wonderful places in the world where it’s still very difficult to get cell phone service. You may be able to pick up some reception at a few points along the trail, but don’t rely on it being available.
WiFi
With the exception of the Volcano Hut at Thorsmork and the hostel at Skogar, you will not have access to WiFi anywhere on the Laugavegur. Get ready to spend your downtime taking in the views and enjoying a good book!
The Laugavegur Trail can be walked in 2 – 4 days depending on your hiking ability, pace preferences, and weather conditions. If you’re interested in adding on the Fimmvörðuháls Trail, plan on an additional 1 – 2 days of walking. The following itineraries give you a sense of the possibilities. Even if you don’t want to add on the Fimmvörðuháls section, you can still use the first part of each itinerary to customize your hike for your desired time frame. Also, be sure to check out our interactive map and elevation profile for the route to get a comprehensive understanding of all of your options!
Completing the Laugavegur Trail in 2-days with the option of adding the Fimmvörðuháls Trail on the third day is the fastest way to complete the walk. This is the itinerary we chose and found it to be quite enjoyable; there were certainly long days of walking, but still plenty of time to enjoy the scenery and sights.
Day 1: Landmannalaugar to Hvangill (15.5 miles)
Starting your trek early from Landmannalaugar ,you’ll climb steadily along the well-marked trail and eventually reach the first hut along the walk at Hrafntinnusker. Enjoy the spectacular view from the hut and be glad you’re not camping in this harsh location! Continuing on from Hrafntinnusker you’ll enjoy a gentle downhill leading to a short but steep climb before a long descent to the hut and campground at Álftavatn, approximately 13-miles into your walk. While it may be tempting to stop here, we highly recommend continuing on for another 2.5 miles to Hvangill to shorten your day tomorrow as well an enjoy the smaller and quieter hut at Hvangill.
Day 2: Hvangill to Þórsmörk (17.5 miles)
Get up early and prepare for a long, but lovely day on the trail! Leaving Hvangill, you’ll walk on an undulating trail before making the largest river-crossing of the Laugavegur Trail at Bláfjallakvísl. Take great care here, as the current moves fast and can water levels can typically reach thigh-high depths! After crossing the Bláfjallakvísl River, the trail flattens out and you’ll walk through what seems like an endless black sand desert before reaching the hut and campground at Emstrur. Upon leaving Emstrur, you’ll soon come to a spectacular bridge over the Syðri-Emstruá River – take a moment to enjoy the incredible views! From here, you’ll continue down the trail to a final river crossing before reaching the well-maintained hut and campground at Þórsmörk and the end of the Laugavegur Trail!
Optional Day 3: Fimmvörðuháls Trail to Skogar (15 miles)
Those who wish to add on the Fimmvörðuháls Trail to Skogar will want to get another early start for this epic walk! Plan on 10-12 hours of walking to complete the Fimmvörðuháls Trail in a single day, and be sure to reward yourself with a beer once you reach Skogar! Climbing steeply out of Þórsmörk, the trail winds steadily uphill before passing between the two glaciers- Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. You’ll also witness firsthand the volcanic remnants of the 2010 eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano and the youngest mountains in the world. The juxtaposition of jet black ash beneath blindingly white snow are simply magnificent. As you start your descent, keep your eyes pealed for glimpses of the Atlantic Ocean on the horizon. You’ll then begin the long trail down, descending past dozens of beautiful, glacially-fed waterfalls. The trail finishes at the spectacular Skogafoss Waterfall – an apt finale to a wonderful walk!
The Hvanngil hut and campground, a perfect stop for those completing the Laugavegur in 2 days.
3-day Laugavegur Trail + 1-2 day Fimmvörðuháls Trail
Adding an extra day to complete the Laugavegur Trail will make for a gentler pace and ample opportunities to enjoy some of the great side trips along the route. This moderately paced itinerary will be best for the majority of walkers. You’ll have the option of completing the Fimmvörðuháls Trail in a single day, or overnighting at one of the huts along the trail.
Day 1: Landmannalaugar to Álftavatn (13 miles)
Starting from Landmannalaugar you’ll climb steadily along the well-marked trail past the Hrafntinnusker hut and campground. Continue on, enjoying the spectacular views on the trail before beginning the long-descent to Álftavatn. You’ll be able to see the large lake at Álftavatn well before arriving. Just before reaching Álftavatn you’ll cross the Grashagakvísl River, which does not have a bridge (requiring you to walk through it). Finally, you’ll arrive at the excellent facilities at Álftavatn – be sure to enjoy a cold beer at the bar/restaurant!
Day 2: Álftavatn to Emstrur (10 miles)
Leaving Álftavatn, you’ll soon cross another river (no bridge) before reaching the Hvangill hut and campground. Continue on, soon after arriving at the Bláfjallakvísl River, which requires great care to cross safely. From here you’ll walk through a flat, desert-like landscape before reaching the Emstrur Hut and Campground with its spectacular views.
Day 3: Emstrur to Þórsmörk(10 miles)
Leaving Emstrur, you’ll cross the spectacular gorge formed by the Syðri-Emstruá River. Continuing on you’ll soon have the option for a short detour off the trail to view the confluence of the Markarfljót and Syðri-Emstruá Rivers – we highly recommend checking them out! Finally, you’ll continue down the trail to a final river crossing before reaching the well-maintained hut and campground at Þórsmörk and the end of the Laugavegur Trail!
Optional Day 4 and 5: Fimmvörðuháls Trail to Skogar (15 miles)
We highly recommend adding on the Fimmvörðuháls Trail to your Laugavegur adventure. This 15-mile trail can be tackled in a single, long day or broken up into two days with a stay at either the Baldvinsskáli Hut owned by Ferðafélag Íslands (7,000 ISK per night) or the Fimmvörðuskáli Hut owned by Útivist (also 7,000 ISK per night). The huts are located approximately 7.5 miles from the start of the trek, a nice halfway point if you decide to stop. Be sure to take your own hiking abilities into consideration before deciding whether to tackle the Fimmvörðuháls Trail in one or two days.
The hut and campground at Emstrur offer exceptional views!
4-day Laugavegur Trail + 2 day Fimmvörðuháls Trail
The most leisurely-paced way to walk the Laugavegur Trail is to take 4-days, with no single day requiring more than 10 miles of walking. This itinerary is best for less confident walkers or those who wish to take their time and enjoy all the sights along the way. For trekkers utilizing this itinerary who also wish to add on the Fimmvörðuháls Trail, we recommend completing it in an additional 2-days with an overnight at the Baldvinsskáli Hut.
Day 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker (6 miles)
The six-mile walk from Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker is one of the more physically demanding sections of the trail. You’ll gain approximately 1,500 feet of elevation over six-miles before reaching the Hrafntinnusker Hut and Campground. We don’t recommend camping here as the conditions can be quite rough.
Day 2: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn (8 miles)
Leaving Hrafntinnusker you’ll enjoy a gentle downhill trail before a short-climb leads to excellent views. From here you’ll embark on a long and steep downhill to the Álftavatn Hut and campground with spectacular views of its namesake lake!
Day 3: Álftavatn to Emstrur (10 miles)
Walking out of Álftavatn, you’ll cross the Bratthálskvísl river (no bridge) before reaching the Hvangill hut and campground. Continuing on, you will soon arrive at the most difficult river crossing of the walk at the Bláfjallakvísl River. From here you’ll walk through a flat, desert like landscape before reaching the Emstrur Hut and Campground with its spectacular views.
Day 4: Emstrur to Þórsmörk(10 miles)
Leaving Emstrur, you’ll enjoy a nice trail with a spectacular crossing of the Syðri-Emstruá River gorge. Continuing on you’ll soon have the option for a short detour off the trail to view the confluence of the Markarfljót and Syðri-Emstruá Rivers – we highly recommend checking them out! As you make your way further down the trail you’ll have a final river crossing before reaching the well-maintained hut and campground at Þórsmörk and the end of the Laugavegur Trail!
Optional Day 5: Þórsmörk to Baldvinsskáli Hut (7.5 miles)
Walking the Fimmvörðuháls Trail in two days will give hikers a chance to fully enjoy every moment of this spectacular hike. Leaving Þórsmörk, you’ll hike steeply uphill while taking in beautiful views of the surrounding glaciers. After crossing a very exposed section you’ll climb an extremely steep (but short) section of trail to reach the high point between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull Glaciers before overnighting at the Baldvinsskáli Hut.
Optional Day 6: Baldvinsskáli Hut to Skogar
Leaving the Baldvinsskáli Hut you’ll have a steady downhill walk all the way to Skogar. With the most difficult sections of the Fimmvörðuháls Trail out of the way you’ll be able to enjoy the dozens of spectacular waterfalls along the route. Take your time and enjoy the steadily changing landscape before reaching the end of the Fimmvörðuháls Trail at the awe inspiring Skogafoss Waterfall!
Otherworldly landscapes near the top of the Fimmvörðuháls Trail.
Walking South to North
If you’re interested in walking the Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trail from south to north, the following is a basic 4-day itinerary. Be sure to take a look at the elevation profile to get a sense of how much climbing each day will entail, as it will be significantly more than if you walk the route from north to south!
Be sure to study the elevation profile before deciding to walk from south to north!
Day 1: Fimmvörðuháls Trail: Skogar to Þórsmörk (15 miles)
Walking the two trails from south to north means your first day will be by far your most difficult. You’ll begin your walk on the Fimmvörðuháls Trail in Skogar and climb steadily past a beautiful landscape of waterfalls and rushing rivers. You’ll continue upwards and the landscape will begin to change from the lush green hills to a barren, volcanic landscape. At around the half-way point you’ll arrive at the Baldvinsskáli Hut, where you can stay if you’d like to break the Fimmvörðuháls into two days. From here you’ll continue uphill until reaching the high-point between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull Glaciers before starting a long, steep, and at times exposed descent towards Þórsmörk. Take your time here and enjoy the beauty surrounding you! From the high point of the trail it’s about 7 miles down to Þórsmörk, where you’ll undoubtedly need to treat yourself to a beer!
Day 2: Þórsmörk to Emstrur (10 miles)
Upon leaving Þórsmörk you’ll quickly have a river-crossing to navigate. Once across, you’ll wind your way up steadily with plenty of excellent views. As you near Emstrur you’ll have the option to take a quick loop trail to view the beautiful canyon formed at the confluence of the Markarfljót and Syðri-Emstruá Rivers – a highly recommended detour! From here you’ll have a short walk before reaching the hut and campground at Emstrur.
Day 3: Emstrur to Álftavatn (10 miles)
Continuing on the Laugavegur from Emstrur, you’ll enjoy a relatively flat day en route to the lakeside hut and campground at Álftavatn. Soon after leaving Emstrur you’ll traverse a large, black sand desert before coming to the major river crossing at Bratthálskvísl. Take extra care here as this is the most difficult crossing of the walk. Once past the river, you’ll come to the hut and campground at Hvangill before tackling one more smaller river crossing just before reaching Álftavatn.
Day 4: Álftavatn to Landmannalaugar (13 miles)
Your final day will be one of your toughest, with a steep uphill section starting just after leaving Álftavatn. There is another river crossing at this point, so be prepared to get your feet wet. Once you’ve finished your climb out of Álftavatn you’ll soon come to the hut and campground at Hrafntinnusker. It’s all downhill from here! After leaving the hut you’ll enjoy tremendous views on the steep descent into Landmannalaugar and the finish of the Laugavegur Trail. Be sure to commemorate your accomplishment with a soak in the natural hot springs!
A soak in the hot springs at Landmannalaugar is a must!
What’s Next?
Be sure to read our entire series on the Laugavegur Trail to learn everything you’ll need to know to prepare for your trip!
At first glance, Laugavegur Trail may seem physically daunting, but many might find it even more financially intimidating. After all, Iceland has a reputation for being one of the most…
At first glance, Laugavegur Trail may seem physically daunting, but many might find it even more financially intimidating. After all, Iceland has a reputation for being one of the most expensive countries in the world. There’s no doubt that it’s not a cheap place to travel, but those on a budget need not despair. In fact, trekking the Laugavegur might be one most affordable ways to see the best of Iceland, if you know what you’re doing.
We tend to travel on the frugal side, as we enjoy the simplicity and authentic experiences that go hand in hand with this type of travel. That being said, we’re not claiming the most hardcore budget travelers out there; we certainly allow ourselves to indulge in things that bring value to our experience, such as a post-hike beer or a hotel room on our rest day. Below we’ve outlined what we spent on our 2019 Laugavegur adventure, as well as some tips for keeping your expenses down. We hope that by sharing this information, our fellow hikers will be able to plan and budget more accurately for their own trip. Additionally, you might find that an experience like the Laugavegur is more within reach than you originally thought, if you just make a few intentional decisions when planning your travel. So grab your tent and get out there!
Looking over the hut and campground at Landmannalaugar.
Accommodation
We chose to camp along the Laugavegur Trail and we highly recommend it to others for a number of reasons. First, there is camping available at every hut along the trail, making easy to customize your itinerary. Unlike the huts, you don’t need to reserve your campsite in advance, affording you flexibility while hiking. The campgrounds provide drinking water, sinks, toilets, showers, and small shops, making them quite convenient and mildly luxurious. We also preferred the privacy of our tent versus the dorm-style sleeping arrangements of the huts. Sleeping outdoors in such spectacular surroundings became a highlight of our trip. And of course, the price of camping can’t be beat! In you decide to stay in the huts instead, expect to pay a bit more. However, many hikers who’ve chosen to stay in huts have found it to be well worth the extra money for a warm, dry place to end the day and for the ability to carry a much lighter pack. Here’s a breakdown of what you can expect to pay for either accommodation:
Average Hut Price: 9,000 ISK (per person)
Average Camping Price: 2,000 ISK (per person)
Shower at huts: 500 ISK (5 minutes)
Hostel in Skogar: 6,500 ISK (per person for dorm bed)
Average mid-range hotel in Reykjavik: 18,000 ISK
The hut at Hrafntinnusker.
Transit
Round-trip transport between the Laugavegur Trail and Reykjavik (via the Reykjavik Excursions “Hiker Pass”): 14,000 ISK (per person)
Strateo (public) bus between Skogar and Reykjavik: 5,640 ISK (per person-one way)
Strateo bus from Keflavik Airport (KEF) to central Reykjavik: 1,880 ISK (per person-one way)
Private Transfer from Keflavik Airport (KEF) to central Reykjavik: 3,449 ISK (per person-one way)
Be sure to read our Laugavegur Trail Logistics article for detailed information on getting to and from your trek.
Reykjavik Excursions provides easy access to and from the Laugavegur Trail.
*Alaska Airlines is a partner with IcelandAir, thus allowing us to use their miles to purchase our tickets. Unfortunately, the amount of miles required for this trip has increased since the time we booked our flights.
Food and Drink
Iceland’s reputation for being expensive is largely due to the pricey nature of food and drink. While preparing for our trip, we came across tales of tourists bringing extra suitcases full of food from home and of people swearing that you couldn’t find fresh produce anywhere in the country without paying a king’s ransom. These reports are certainly unfairly dramatic. In general, you can find decent prices on necessities at the grocery stores in bigger cities, such as bread, cheeses, and other staple items. We found that Budget and Krónan stores had the best prices. Produce is expensive, but once again, you can find reasonably priced items if you’re willing to keep it simple and be somewhat flexible.
Outdoor dining at its finest!
However, since you can’t buy much food along the trail anyways, you may want to consider bringing some of your hiking foods from home. This will ensure that you’ll have a better selection and more predictable prices. Obviously, you can only bring sealed, packaged items through customs, but that jives well with nonperishable hiker foods anyways. We brought all of our meals for the trek from home, and it definitely saved us some money. If you choose to buy your food once you get there, be sure to stock up on as much as possible while in Reykjavik. The huts (with the exception of the restaurants at Álftavatn and Þórsmörk) do not provide meals, which is helpful on the budget since eating out in Iceland tends to be insanely expensive! Most huts have a small shop stocked with candy, chips, soda, beer, and sometimes ramen, but you’ll still need to cook it yourself and the prices at these shops are quite high. This is understandable, considering the effort it takes to get a Twix bar from the point of production to a remote location in the far reaches of the Icelandic wilderness! Below we’ve listed what you can expect to pay for a variety of items along the trail and in Reykjavik in order to give you an idea of what things might cost:
At a grocery store in Reykjavik:
Loaf of sandwich bread: 350 ISK
Bag of muesli: 800 ISK
Block of cheese: 400 ISK
Package of noodle soup: 500 ISK
At a shop in the huts:
Beer: 1,300 ISK
Bag of chips: 500 ISK
Candy bar: 400 ISK
Cup of noodles: 700 ISK
Meal at Álftavatn or Þórsmörk: 3,500 ISK
The Mountain Mall at Landmannalaugar – a great place to pick up snacks.
Miscellaneous
Stove Fuel: 1,500 ISK
Laundry: 500 ISK for wash + another 500 ISK for dryer
Luggage storage (medium sized locker) at the BSI Bus terminal in Reykjavik: 990 ISK per day
While there’s no escaping the high costs of some essentials, in general, one can experience the Laugavegur Trail on a modest budget (and have an amazing experience while doing so). Obviously, you’ll also want to factor in the cost of hiking gear that you’ll need to purchase prior to setting off on your trek. Check out our packing list to get an idea of what you might need to purchase ahead of time. Also, our Backpacking Gear on a Budget article has some helpful ideas for keeping your costs low when putting together your backpacking kit. Whether you choose to splurge or keep it simple, we feel confident you’ll have the adventure of a lifetime.
What’s Next?
Ready to keep planning your Laugavegur trek? Be sure to read our entire series on the Laugavegur Trail to learn everything you’ll need to know to prepare for this incredible adventure!
The Laugavegur Trail was our first of the five treks we’ll complete as part of our “trip of a lifetime” adventure. By booking our flights to Geneva (where we’ll start…
The Laugavegur Trail was our first of the five treks we’ll complete as part of our “trip of a lifetime” adventure. By booking our flights to Geneva (where we’ll start the Haute Route) through Iceland Air, we were able to get a free week-long stopover in Iceland on the way. We’d seen pictures of the otherworldly landscapes and colorful vistas, and couldn’t pass up a chance to experience Iceland’s wilderness firsthand. Due to its proximity to Reykjavik, relatively short distance, and exceptional beauty, we thought hiking the Laugavegur Trial would be a perfect way to spend our week in Iceland.
The Laugavegur Trail is Iceland’s most popular and iconic long-distance trek. It is divided into four segments, each marked by a mountain hut and camping area at the finish. At the official end of the trail, there is the option to add on another day’s hike on the Fimmvorduhals Trail, which climbs up to pass between two glaciers and then descends into the small town of Skogar. Our plan was to combine the first two segments of the Laugavegur Trail on our first day to complete the entire thing and make it to Skogar in a total of four days. Keep reading for a summary of each of our days on the trail:
Views from Landmannalaugar and one of many amazing landscapes you’ll encounter on this hike.
Day Zero: Landmannalaugar
We arrived in Landmannalaugar in the afternoon with plans to camp there for the evening and then set off for our hike early(ish) the next morning. Landmannalaugar is known for it’s amazing geothermal landscape, which is punctuated by otherworldly colors, random steam-spewing crevices, and some truly lovely hot springs. We almost talked ourselves into skipping the hot springs, considering the fact that we hadn’t brought swimsuits and didn’t want to haul around wet clothes in our packs for the next few days. Fortunately, Ian pulled the whole “It’s not everyday that you find yourself at some dope geothermal hot springs” card and I was quickly convinced. Us Coloradans would have preferred to soak in nude, but after a quick survey of the scene we determined that Iceland wasn’t ready for all that and opted to sacrifice one of our precious few pairs of underwear for the cause. Soaking in the hot springs, surrounded by dramatic mountains and dynamic colors in every direction was truly an unparalleled way to kick off our trek. We returned to a very chilly night in our tent before hitting the trail the next morning.
The lovely hot springs at Landmannalaugar.
Day One: Landmannalaugar to Hvangill
We began Day One in good spirits. The initial uphill climb helped us thaw out a bit (did I mention that Iceland is a cold place for camping?) and the views blew us away from the start. Iceland is like no other place on Earth that we’ve ever been. The geothermal activity, volcanic landforms, vibrantly colored mountains, wide rivers, black sand deserts, and powerful waterfalls all come together to give this place a character that is completely unique and totally spectacular. The first day of hiking on a long-distance trek is always a bit of a euphoria-filled blur. For example, we were so blissed out on our first day of the Tour du Mont Blanc that we missed an obvious turn and walked in the wrong direction for an hour before realizing it. On our first day of the West Highland Way, we stopped for a very long lunch (whisky included) thinking we were much closer to our stopping point than we actually were. On the Laugavegur, the trail really gave new meaning to the expression, “a surprise around every corner.” It seemed like every hill we crested or bend we rounded presented a completely new and wondrous landscape. Despite hiking for over eight hours, we finished feeling energized and totally stokey about the next day. Therefore, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that we decided to combine the next two segments into another big day the following day. Why sit around and be cold at the campsite when we could spend the entire day exploring the trail?
Crossing snow on day one!
Day Two: Hvangill to Basar
On Day Two, we packed up camp in damp conditions and a literally bone-chilling wind. One plus side of this weather is that it makes instant coffee taste like the elixir of life. Another positive was that although we had nearly perfect weather throughout the hike, we did at least get a little taste of Iceland’s moody dark side. We set off towards the next hut feeling a little stiff after the previous day’s efforts but totally excited for what the trail would bring. We did have some trepidation however, as we’d read that the biggest of our river crossings would occur on this stage of the hike. For such an expensive country with otherwise impeccable infrastructure, Iceland seems curiously reluctant to build bridges over rivers. Both people and vehicles are routinely expected to ford sizable rivers if they would like to carry on towards their destination. The warden’s notes at the previous huts warned hikers to take caution crossing the Emstur River, and recent reports suggested the water could reach mid-thigh depths. We’d hoped we’d get an hour or two of walking behind us to warm up before crossing the icy water, but lo and behold, we met it within a few minutes of starting the day. For the second time this week in Iceland, we found ourselves stripping down to our underwear and stepping into the steely glacial waters. This time, however, there was no geothermal action to soften the blow. We forged into the icy, fast-moving currents, carefully choosing every step even though we just wanted to run to the other side and get out as fast as possible. Well, that was one wickedly efficient way to wake up in the morning.
Nothing like crossing an ice cold river to wake you up in the morning.
The rest of Day Two was tremendously beautiful, but definitely more of a slog than Day One, due to very long stretches through rocky desert and the fact that our bodies were starting to feel the miles a bit more. Still, we saw so many amazing sights, like the enormous canyon where two rivers-one slate gray and the other sepia toned-together hundreds of feet below us. Finally, we reached Þórsmörk, the technical end of the Laugavegur. We bought a ridiculously overpriced, but yet so necessary, Twix bar at the Þórsmörk campsite shop and then continued on another mile to the campsite at Basar where we’d be better positioned to start the next day’s big hike. Upon reaching camp, the sun had fully made an appearance and we enjoyed some very relaxing evening hours soaking up the endless daylight before putting on our sleeping masks and turning in for the night.
End of the Laugavegur Trail at Þórsmörk.
Day Three: Basar to Skogar
Day Three brought more excellent sunny weather, and we knew we had to take advantage of it and bust out the last big day of walking before allowing ourselves a rest day. Today we would complete the Fimmvorduhals Trail. Have you ever wanted to climb between two glaciers, see the youngest mountains on earth, witness recent volcanic eruptions where black ash meets white snow, crest a mountain pass to see the ocean in the distance, or gaze at 20 waterfalls all in one day? Well we never knew we wanted all those things either until we hiked this trail, but it turns out that it definitely doesn’t suck. You’ve got to work for your views though. The trail included some ridiculously steep climbs, a mildly sketchy exposed section, and lots of hiking through slushy snow fields. Technically, today was supposed to be way harder in terms of challenge than the previous day, but we both felt significantly better. It was one of those all-around perfect days in nature.
The second half of the Fimmvörðuháls Trail passes no less than 17 waterfalls!
Reaching the end of the hike was an interesting experience. Skogar, where the Fimmvorduhals terminates, is a huge draw for tourists due to its proximity to the main highway and its very impressive waterfall, known as Skogafoss. To us, after being on the lightly trafficked trail for the past few days, it felt like a total zoo. Giant buses dropped off camera-wielding tourists who aggressively fought their way into position for the perfect Instagram shot. It was such an entertaining spectacle that we had no other choice to embrace it and relish the experience. The campground was smack dab in the center of the action, so we enjoyed an endless stream of premium people-watching from the comfort of our tent. The waterfall views were pretty sweet too. Although we appreciated Skogar for what it was worth, we realized pretty quickly that we would struggle hang around at the campground for the nearly 48 hours until our bus was scheduled to pick us up (since we finished a day early). Fortunately, we were able to change our tickets and decided to make the most of our extra time by heading back to Reykjavik, where we spent the night at the lovely Reykjavik Campground.
The Laugavegur Trail completely blew us away. Every day brought dramatic beauty, dynamic challenges, and huge, wild spaces. It was an unforgettable experience and the most incredible way to kick off our round-the-world adventure. Iceland’s rugged landscape is bound to carve a special place in the heart of anyone who is lucky enough to explore it.
Crowds gathered at the Skogafoss Waterfall.
What’s Next?
Ready to keep planning your Laugavegur trek? Be sure to read our entire series on the Laugavegur Trail to learn everything you’ll need to know to prepare for this incredible adventure!
Take a visual tour along the Laugavegur Trail in anticipation of your upcoming adventure! The Laugavegur Trail traverses 34 miles of the Icelandic Highlands and takes you through a stunning…
Take a visual tour along the Laugavegur Trail in anticipation of your upcoming adventure! The Laugavegur Trail traverses 34 miles of the Icelandic Highlands and takes you through a stunning array of landscapes. You can also add on the famous Fimmvörðuháls Trail to the end of your Laugavegur Trail hike, which we highly recommend!
Be sure to check out the rest of our Laugavegur Trail posts below:
If you’re planning to walk the Laugavegur and have been utilizing our Guide to Camping on the Laugavegur Trail you’re likely wondering what to pack for your own adventure. Below you’ll…
If you’re planning to walk the Laugavegur and have been utilizing our Guide to Camping on the Laugavegur Trail you’re likely wondering what to pack for your own adventure.
Below you’ll find a detailed packing list that will provide you with great, trail-tested gear that won’t weigh down your backpack too much. This list reflects our personal packing list which will vary for each individual’s specific needs. However, this should serve as a great starting point for planning your own Laugavegur Trail adventure!
Many of the small details of planning your Laugavegur Trail trek can end up being the biggest challenges. You probably know that the river crossing will be difficult, but you…
Many of the small details of planning your Laugavegur Trail trek can end up being the biggest challenges. You probably know that the river crossing will be difficult, but you might not be thinking as much about how you’ll get from the Keflavik Airport to your hotel in Reykjavik and then on to the start of the Laugavegur trail in Landmannalaugar. We’ve put together the following post to help you tackle all of those tricky logistical items that are sure to arise when you’re planning your own Laugavegur trail adventure.
Most, if not all, walkers will arrive in Iceland at the Keflavik Airport (KEF), which is about 50km from the center of Reykjavik. If you are flying from the United States, your flight will likely arrive early in the morning, leaving you plenty of time to get settled in your accommodation in Reykjavik before starting your walk the next day. Here are your best options for getting from Keflavik to central Reykjavik:
Public Bus (Straeto): By far the most economical way to get from the airport to Reykjavik is the public bus. Straeto, Iceland’s public transportation company, runs an efficient airport bus (Route number 55) that picks up from the airport and makes several stops en route to central Reykjavik. The bus runs hourly during peak times, and as of 2019 the cost for a one-way fare to Reykjavik is 1,880 ISK. Tickets can be purchased from the bus driver upon boarding. Straeto has a very helpful smartphone app that allows you to plan your journey as well as pay for tickets, and we highly recommend travelers with phone access make use of it.
FlyBus: FlyBus, operated by Reykjavik Excursions, is your best bet for private transfers from the airport to central Reykjavik. The bus picks up travelers from the airport and drops them off at either the central bus station (BSI Terminal) or at selected hotels throughout the city. The FlyBus can be booked in advance through the Reykjavik Excursions website and costs 3,449 ISK as of 2019.
Where to Stay in Reykjavik
Lodging (and everything, really) is expensive in Reykjavik. Luckily, there are several good options to suit all budgets for staying in Reykjavik both before and after walking the Laugavegur Trail. Here are your best bets:
Reykjavik Campsite: The most economical option in town is to simply camp at the lovely Reykjavik Campsite. Located approximately 20-30 minutes by walking from central Reykjavik, the campground provides great facilities at a fraction of the cost of a hotel room. As a bonus, the bus to Landmannalaugar picks up directly from the campsite.
Reykjavik City Hi Hostel: The most convenient hostel for those planning to walk the Laugavegur, the City Hi Hostel is located adjacent to the campsite as well as the bus pick-up location for getting to Landmannalaugar.
Hilton Reykjavik Nordica: For those looking for a more traditional hotel, we would highly recommend the Hilton Reykjavik Nordica. Located on the edge of central Reykjavik, the hotel offers nice rooms, a fantastic breakfast, and is just a short walk from the campsite for catching the bus to Landmannalaugar.
You can check out all the options in and around Reykjavik here:
The Reykjavik Campsite is an affordable and convenient option for Laugavegur hikers.
Getting to/from the Laugavegur from Reykjavik
For those hiking the Laugavegur Trail from north to south, you’ll start in Landmannalaugar. There is no public bus service to Landmannalaugar so you’ll need to arrange private transportation. The best option in our opinion is the Reykjavik Excursions Iceland on Your Own Hiker Pass. The hiker pass provides walkers with transportation to the start of the Laugavegur trail as well as back to Reykjavik from the finish. You can take as much time as you need to complete the hike and can be picked from any of the three main access points on the Laugavegur: Landmannalaugar, Þórsmörk, and Skogar (for those also completing the Fimmvörðuháls). The cost as of 2019 is 14,000 ISK and the bus picks up walkers at the campsite as well as the BSI bus terminal. If you choose to complete the Fimmvörðuháls and finish in Skogar, Straeto (the public bus company) picks up here via Route 51. Check Straeto’s website for more details and timetables.
For those hiking the trail from south to north and starting in Þórsmörk, you’ll need to use the Reykjavik Excursions service described above as there is no public bus to Þórsmörk. If you are starting your Laugavegur hike by first completing the Fimmvörðuháls, then you will also have the option of utilizing Straeto’s Route 51 described above.
Keep in mind that all routes between Reykjavik and any of the three main access points for the Laugavegur take several hours. The journey between Reykjavik and Landmannalaugar takes about 4.5 hours, Reykjavik to/from Þórsmörk takes about 4 hours, and Reykjavik to/from Skogar takes about 3.5 hours. Therefore, you’ll want to plan the start and end of your hike accordingly to allow for enough time to complete each segment and also catch your return bus.
Reykjavik Excursions provides easy access to and from the Laugavegur Trail.
Money
There are no ATMs along the Laugavegur Trail, so you’ll need to be prepared to pay for all of your expenses with cash you’ve brought along or with a credit card. All of the huts/campsites give you the option to pay for your accommodation and anything additional you may purchase with a credit card, although savvy travelers will want to bring at least some cash as it’s possible that the credit card machines may not be working due to limited solar power.
Luggage Storage
Many walkers will be traveling with more luggage than they might like to carry while hiking the Laugavegur Trail. If that’s the case for you, you’ll find several options for luggage storage in Reykjavik. Luggage Lockers Iceland has several options throughout Reykjavik, with the most convenient locations for Laugavegur walkers being the Laugardalslaug Swimming Pool (adjacent to the campsite) and the BSI Bus Station, as both are pick-up and drop-off points for the bus to/from the Laugavegur. Note that the maximum luggage storage time at the BSI Bus Station is 5 days, while the Laugardalslaug Swimming Pool will allow you to store your luggage for up to 30 days. Both locations have several locker sizes as well as easy to use self-service kiosks. You can check locker sizes, prices, and opening hours for all of their locations here.
Alternatively, many hotels in Reykjavik will gladly store your extra luggage if you are staying with them both before and after your Laugavegur Trail. The best option of course is to only pack what you need and avoid having to store any extra luggage at all!
But wait…there’s more!
Be sure to check out our entire series on the Laugavegur Trail get the all the information you need to prepare for this incredible adventure!
Hiking in Iceland gives a whole new meaning to the term wide open spaces. The volcanic landscapes on this stunning island are dynamic, colorful, wild, and unbelievably vast. One of…
Hiking in Iceland gives a whole new meaning to the term wide open spaces. The volcanic landscapes on this stunning island are dynamic, colorful, wild, and unbelievably vast. One of the most wonderful ways to experience the best of what Iceland’s backcountry has to offer (waterfalls, glaciers, geothermal activity, canyons, aquamarine rivers…you get the idea) is to hike the iconic Laugavegur Trail. This 34 mile (55 km) walk typically takes hikers 2-4 days. It allows walkers to experience the remote and often harsh landscapes of the Icelandic wilderness while still providing some basic comforts and amenities. Those who want to maximize comfort might choose to stay in the mountain huts, while those seeking a more rugged (and affordable) experience can camp at every stage of the trek. Completing the hike is pretty straightforward, but there are nonetheless some important factors to consider in advance. This is particularly true if you are planning to camp along the trail. This guide will cover everything you need to know in order to prepare for an amazing Laugavegur camping adventure!
Cascading falls on the way to Skogar.
First, a few basics about the Laugavegur:
Direction: We hiked the Laugavegur from north to south and we’d certainly recommend traveling in this direction if you want to avoid some very long climbs and be more likely to have the wind at your back. If you do plan on hiking from south to north, expect a more challenging hike and plan for longer days on the trail. The “traditional” direction to hike is from north to south, but don’t expect to have the trail all to yourself if you go in the opposite direction. We saw several dozen hikers traveling northbound each day while we were out there.
When to do it: The weather in Iceland can be extremely harsh. No matter when you go, expect cold, wet, and windy conditions for a least some parts of your trek and pack accordingly. This is especially important for campers. We hiked in early July and had great weather throughout, although it was still very cold at times. Even though it was peak season, it wasn’t overly crowded on the trail if we got an early start. With the right gear (check out our packing list for more on this topic), campers can typically complete the hike from mid-June through early September. Make sure to always check with the hut wardens for the latest conditions and never attempt to hike through unsafe weather.
Notes:
All prices in this guide are per person, per day.
This guide is based on a moderately-paced four day itinerary that begins in Landmannalaugar and ends in Þórsmörk (pronounced Thorsmork). There is an option to extend your hike by completing the Fimmvörðuháls Trail which connects Þórsmörk to Skogar. We have included information about this option in the guide as well. Many segments of the hike can be easily modified and these have been noted in the guide. For those hiking from south to north, most of this information still applies in reverse. Any exceptions have been noted in the guide.
Wild camping is not permitted in Iceland.
Campers will not have access to outlets for charging electronics until they reach the campground at Skogar. Plan accordingly.
Reservations are not necessary for any of the campgrounds.
You’ll find only a very limited inventory of (very expensive) supplies for sale at some of the huts along the trail. You should plan on stocking up on food, stove fuel, and provisions for your entire trek before leaving Reykjavik.
Campsite and hut at Landmannalaugar, the start of the Laugavegur Trail.
Day One: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker
If you are planning on starting your hike in Landmannalaugar, you’ll likely need to catch a bus there from Reykjavik (see our Laugavegur Trail Logistics article for more on how to do this). The bus ride takes about 4.5 hours, so you’ll want to take this into consideration when planning out your first day of hiking. If you take a morning bus and arrive in Landmannalaugar by midday, you could complete the first stage to Hrafntinnusker in the same day. Alternatively, you could camp at Landmannalaugar and begin hiking the following morning. If you went with the latter option you could combine the first two stages into one longer day to make up time and avoid camping at Hrafntinnusker (see more on that below). Additionally, there are some great day hikes near Landmannalaugar as well as some truly incredible hot springs.
Landmannalaugar:
Services at Landmannalaugar: Indoor toilets, hot and cold water (safe for drinking), hot showers (500 ISK for 5 min), clothesline, sheltered cooking area, trash and recycling, small shop selling snacks, beer, and hiking necessities (blister pads, maps, and stove fuel), picnic tables. Note: The ground at the Landmannalaugar campsite is very hard and rocky. You’ll need to use the rocks provided to secure your tent, as you are unlikely to be able to get your stakes into the ground. A nice sleeping pad is also recommended.
The “Mountain Mall” is also located at Landmannalaugar. This eccentric shop is housed within a ring of retro school buses. They sell snacks, hiker meals, warm drinks, beer/wine, and hiking necessities. They also have some nice indoor and outdoor seating areas.
Price: 2000 ISK per person.
The lovely hot springs at Landmannalaugar.
Hrafntinnusker:
The camping area at Hrafntinnusker is adjacent to the small hut which is located near the top of the pass. This is definitely the most exposed and rugged of all the campgrounds along the Laugavegur. You should think twice before deciding to camp here, since it is likely to be very cold and windy. As with all huts along the route, campers will not be allowed inside the hut, even in stormy conditions. If you decide to camp here, you’ll want a 0°F sleeping bag and a high-quality three season tent. If you’re feeling slightly less hardcore, you have a couple of options. You could splurge on a bed inside the hut for this stage (book in advance on the Ferðafélag Íslands website), or you could combine the first two stages of the hike and camp either at Álftavatn or Hvanngil. More on these alternatives below.
Services at Hrafntinnusker: Drop toilets, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up.
Price: 2000 ISK per person
The hut at Hrafntinnusker in early July.
Harsh camping conditions at Hrafntinnusker.
Alternative Options for Day 1:
If you’d like to combine the first two stages of the Laugavegur into one long day, this is definitely possible if you are prepared and start early. However, due to the nature of the steep climbs and possibility of snow-covered trails late in the day, we do not recommend combining these stages if you’re hiking from south to north. If hiking north to south, you can either hike to Álftavatn (24km) or continue on to Hvanngil (an additional 3.8km, or 27.8 km total). There are some pros and cons of each option.
Álftavatn: Pros: Closer (it’s already a long day). More services (see below). Beautiful setting on a very lovely lake.
Cons: More crowded. Very exposed campground-could be unpleasant in poor weather.
Hvangill: Pros: Much smaller and less crowded than Álftavatn. You’ll begin the third stage of the hike with a head start since you’ll be 3.8 km closer to the next hut.
Cons: Fewer services. There is a river crossing between Álftavatn and Hvanngil which might seem daunting at the end of a long day of walking-some people may prefer to tackle it with fresh legs on the next day.
Day Two: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn (or Hvangill).
Services at Álftavatn: Toilets, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, restaurant/bar selling hot meals, hot showers (500 ISK for 5 minutes), picnic tables. There are sinks very close to the camping area, while the bathrooms are slightly further away.
Price: 2000 ISK per person.
The restaurant/bar at Álftavatn.
Camping at Álftavatn.
Services at Hvangill: Toilets, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, warm showers (500 ISK for 5 minutes), shop selling beer, snacks, and hiking basics, semi-sheltered picnic table.
Price: 2000 ISK per person.
Approaching the hut and campsite at Hvanngil.
Day Three: Álftavatn to Emstrur
The Emstrur Hut and campground are located in a lovely little valley alongside a pretty stream. The hut has some nice decks with great views and picnic tables that are accessible to campers. The camping area is located below the hut and is reached by descending down a rather long flight of stairs to the banks of the stream. Campers will need to climb back up the stairs to use the toilet facilities and sinks.
Services at Emstrur: Toilets, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, warm showers (500 ISK for 5 minutes), shop selling beer, snacks, and hiking basics, picnic tables, clothesline.
Price: 2000 ISK per person.
The hut and campsite at Emstrur.
Alternative Option for Day Three:
It is possible to complete stages three and four into another long day and make it to Þórsmörk at the end of your second day. We chose this option in order to take advantage of good weather and free up time to complete the Fimmvörðuháls stage. Plan for 9-11 hours of hiking to complete these stages in one day.
Day Four: Emstrur to Þórsmörk
Upon nearing Þórsmörk, hikers will reach a junction in the trail with a sign that denotes three options for camping. The campgrounds are a few kilometers apart, so pay attention to which direction you want to head before setting off.
Volcano Huts: This privately-run campground is located in the opposite direction of the other two camping options. If ending your hike in Þórsmörk, be sure to check with your bus service to ensure that they pick up from Volcano Huts, not just the Þórsmörk/Langidalur Campsite.
Services at Volcano Huts: Indoor toilets, hot and cold water (safe for drinking), indoor cooking area, restaurant/bar, free wifi access at the main service building, shop selling snacks and hiking basics, trash and recycling.
Price: 2600 ISK (includes access to hot showers, sauna, natural warm soaking pool, and wifi access).
Þórsmörk/Langidalur Campsite: This campground is a bit more basic than Volcano Huts, but is still lovely nonetheless. It is run by the Icelandic Touring Association (Ferðafélag Íslands or FI for short), which operates all of the other huts and campsites along the Laugavegur up to this point and the facilities will likely feel familiar. It is located on the riverbed and has plenty of nice grassy areas for pitching a tent. It is well-positioned for pickup if ending your hike in Þórsmörk, but it would also be a good option if you’re continuing on to Skogar. If you plan on completing the Fimmvörðuháls hike, you should definitely plan to camp either here or at the Básar Campground.
Services at Þórsmörk/Langidalur: Toilets, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, warm showers (500 ISK for 5 minutes), shop selling beer, snacks, and hiking basics, picnic tables, sheltered area for cooking, trash and recycling.
Price: 2000 ISK per person.
The Þórsmörk/Langidalur Campsite and Hut at the end of the Laugavegur Trail.
Básar Campsite: This sprawling campground is run by the Útivist Travel Association. You’ll have to walk another 1.5 km past the Þórsmörk/Langidalur campsite across the rocky riverbed to reach it, but you’ll have a head start if you’re hiking to Skogar the next day (which could be valuable since Fimmvörðuháls is a long hike). This campground doesn’t have a lot in the way of views, but it does offer nice facilities, sheltered campsites, and grassy pitches.
Services at Básar: Indoor toilettes, cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, picnic tables, hot shower (500 ISK), cell phone charging (500 ISK), BBQ area.
Price: 1500 ISK per person + 300 ISK tax per tent.
Conveniently located campsite at Básar.
Day Five: Þórsmörk to Skogar (the Fimmvörðuháls Trail)
The trail from Þórsmörk to Skogar is long and challenging, but the beautiful sights are incredibly rewarding. If you are committed to camping, you’ll need to complete the entire 25km (10-12 hours) hike in one day since there are no camping options along the way. If you would like to break it up into two days, you have the option of either staying at the Útivist-owned Fimmvörðuháls Hut or the more basic FI-owned Baldvinsskali Hut, both of which require advance reservations. Otherwise, if you complete the hike in one day, you’ll end at the impressive Skógafoss waterfall and right in the center of the Skogar Campground. Be warned that after being in the remote wilderness for the past few days, Skogar might feel like a bit of a zoo. The falls are a big destination for large tour buses, as well as individuals driving the famous Ring Road. You’ll know you’re getting close to the end of the hike when you start to see jean-clad tourists leaning precariously over the edges of cliffs with their selfie-sticks. You’ll hear all sorts of people and traffic noise late into the evening at the campsite, so ear plugs are a good idea. Because of the campground’s central location, non-campers frequently use the facilities. Expect to wait for the bathroom during the middle part of the day. If you can get past the crowds, you’ll find that Skogar is a pleasant place to camp, with grassy pitches and views of the falls from your tent.
Services at Skogar: Indoor toilets, hot and cold water (safe for drinking), sinks for washing up, warm showers (300 ISK for 5 minutes), free cell phone charging (just ask the warden), picnic tables. There is also a more upscale restaurant/bar in the hotel/hostel nearby, as well as a more casual restaurant and a shop selling some souvenirs, camping equipment and snacks. There are a couple of other restaurants if you walk further down the road.
Price: 1300 ISK per person.
Waterfall views from the Skogar Campsite.
Many people are intimidated by the idea of backpacking in Iceland, citing the prohibitive costs, tricky logistics, and harsh conditions. Camping along the Laugavegur Trail is the perfect way to see Iceland’s most beautiful sights without spending a fortune or getting caught in the tourist circuit. Hopefully our guide can help you plan out your best possible adventure in one of the most incredible landscapes on earth. Happy trails!
What’s Next?
If you’ve read our Guide above, you’re well on your way to having an incredible experience camping on the Laugavegur Trail. However, you still have lots of preparation before you’re truly ready! Be sure to read our entire series on the Laugavegur Trail to learn everything you’ll need to know to prepare for your trip!
Greetings from the Reykjavik Campground in Iceland! The first two segments of our trip of a lifetime/mini-retirement are in the books. It’s hard to believe it’s already been nearly two…
Greetings from the Reykjavik Campground in Iceland! The first two segments of our trip of a lifetime/mini-retirement are in the books. It’s hard to believe it’s already been nearly two weeks since we locked up our Boulder apartment and hit the road. We spent a wonderful week in the Midwest visiting family and friends before hopping on an easy direct flight from Chicago to Reykjavik. We spent a night in this cozy capital before heading out to hike the Laugavegur trail in the south of the country. Before we get into the hike, quick aside about our first night in Reykjavik:
When planning for an extended trip while trying to maintain a rather modest budget, we knew we needed to keep our lodging costs down. We have managed to travel hack our way into a nice bounty of points and miles, but not nearly enough to cover five months of travel. Therefore, we created two guiding rules for strategically booking hotels using travel rewards.
Rule #1: Maximize value. We tried to use the bulk of our rewards-fueled hotel stays in expensive places where we’d pay a pretty penny for accommodation if using cash. Lucky us, our Europe-heavy travel itinerary includes plenty of cities that fit the bill (pun intended). When traveling through southeast Asia, on the other hand, we will use cash for more of our accommodation since lodging is typically very reasonable in those parts.
Rule #2: Hotels on travel days. There is nothing better than finishing a long travel day with an easy check-in process (no fumbling in the dark to find the AirBnB lockbox or waking up the host), a hot shower, baggage storage options, and a clean bed. We will happily rough it in our tent for most nights of our trip, but we are insanely grateful for the small luxuries of hotels when arriving somewhere new sleep-deprived and weary.
After a very comfortable stay at the Reykjavik Hilton (early check in? Heck yes. Amazing breakfast buffet? Even better), we are feeling pretty swell about how The Rules have been working out. We spent a day exploring Reykjavik and running some pre-hike errands before hopping on a bus to Lannamanalugar, our starting destination for the Laugavegur Trail, a 48-mile trek through rugged landscapes in the south of the country.
Starting out on the Laugavegur Trail
The Laugavegur Trail is Iceland’s most popular and iconic long-distance trek. It is divided into four segments, each marked by a mountain hut and camping area at the finish. At the official end of the trail, there is the option to add on another day’s hike on the Fimmvorduhals Trail, which climbs up to pass between two glaciers and then descends into the small town of Skogar. Our plan was to combine the first two segments of the Laugavegur Trail on our first day to complete the entire thing and make it to Skogar in a total of four days.
We arrived in Landmannalaugar in the afternoon with plans to camp there for the evening and then set off for our hike early(ish) the next morning. Landmannalaugar is known for it’s amazing geothermal landscape, which is punctuated by otherworldly colors, random steam-spewing crevices, and some truly lovely hot springs. We almost talked ourselves into skipping the hot springs, considering the fact that we hadn’t brought swimsuits and didn’t want to haul around wet clothes in our packs for the next few days. Fortunately, Ian pulled the whole “It’s not everyday that you find yourself at some dope geothermal hot springs” card and I was quickly convinced. Us Coloradans would have preferred to soak in nude, but after a quick survey of the scene we determined that Iceland wasn’t ready for all that and opted to sacrifice one of our precious few pairs of underwear for the cause. Soaking in the hot springs, surrounded by dramatic mountains and dynamic colors in every direction was truly an unparalleled way to kick off our trek. We returned to a very chilly night in our tent before hitting the trail the next morning.
The lovely hot springs at Landmannalugar.
We began Day 1 in good spirits. The initial uphill climb helped us thaw out a bit (did I mention that Iceland is a cold place for camping?) and the views blew us away from the start. Iceland is like no other place on Earth that we’ve ever been. The geothermal activity, volcanic landforms, vibrantly colored mountains, wide rivers, black sand deserts, and powerful waterfalls all come together to give this place a character that is completely unique and totally spectacular. The first day of hiking on a long-distance trek is always a bit of a euphoria-filled blur. For example, we were so blissed out on our first day of the Tour du Mont Blanc that we missed an obvious turn and walked in the wrong direction for an hour before realizing it. On our first day of the West Highland Way, we stopped for a very long lunch (whisky included) thinking we were much closer to our stopping point than we actually were. On the Laugavegur, the trail really gave new meaning to the expression, “a surprise around every corner.” It seemed like every hill we crested or bend we rounded presented a completely new and wondrous landscape. Despite hiking for over eight hours, we finished feeling energized and totally stokey about the next day. Therefore, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that we decided to combine the next segments into another big day the following day. Why sit around and be cold at the campsite when we could spend the entire day exploring the trail?
Emily doing her best to stay warm.
On Day 2, we packed up camp in damp conditions and a literally bone-chilling wind. One plus side of this weather is that it makes instant coffee taste like the elixir of life. Another positive was that although we had nearly perfect weather throughout the hike, we did at least get a little taste of Iceland’s moody dark side. We set off towards the next hut feeling a little stiff after the previous day’s efforts but totally excited for what the trail would bring. We did have some trepidation however, as we’d read that the biggest of our river crossings would occur on this stage of the hike. For such an expensive country with otherwise impeccable infrastructure, Iceland seems curiously reluctant to build bridges over rivers. Both people and vehicles are routinely expected to ford sizable rivers if they would like to carry on towards their destination. The warden’s notes at the previous huts warned hikers to take caution crossing the Emstur River, and recent reports suggested the water could reach mid-thigh depths. We’d hoped we’d get an hour or two of walking behind us to warm up before crossing the icy water, but lo and behold, we met it within a few minutes of starting the day. For the second time this week in Iceland, we found ourselves stripping down to our underwear and stepping into the steely glacial waters. This time, however, there was no geothermal action to soften the blow. We forged into the icy, fast-moving currents, carefully choosing every step even though we just wanted to run to the other side and get out as fast as possible. Well, that was one wickedly efficient way to wake up in the morning.
The rest of Day 2 was tremendously beautiful, but definitely more of a slog than Day 1, due to very long stretches through rocky desert and the fact that our bodies were starting to feel the miles a bit more. Still, we saw so many amazing sights, like the enormous canyon where two rivers-one slate gray and the other sepia toned-together hundreds of feet below us. Finally, we reached Þórsmörk, the technical end of the Laugavegur. We bought a ridiculously overpriced, but yet so necessary, Twix bar at the Þórsmörk campsite shop and then continued on another mile to the campsite at Basar where we’d be better positioned to start the next day’s big hike. Upon reaching camp, the sun had fully made an appearance and we enjoyed some very relaxing evening hours soaking up the endless daylight before putting on our sleeping masks and turning in for the night.
The confluence of rivers on Day 2.
Day 3 brought more excellent sunny weather, and we knew we had to take advantage of it and bust out the last big day of walking before allowing ourselves a rest day. Today we would complete the Fimmvorduhals Trail. Have you ever wanted to climb between two glaciers, see the youngest mountains on earth, witness recent volcanic eruptions where black ash meets white snow, crest a mountain pass to see the ocean in the distance, or gaze at 20 waterfalls all in one day? Well we never knew we wanted all those things either until we hiked this trail, but it turns out that it definitely doesn’t suck. You’ve got to work for your views though. The trail included some ridiculously steep climbs, a mildly sketchy exposed section, and lots of hiking through slushy snow fields. Technically, today was supposed to be way harder in terms of challenge than the previous day, but we both felt significantly better. It was one of those all-around perfect days in nature.
Cascading falls on the way to Skogar.
Reaching the end of the hike was an interesting experience. Skogar, where the Fimmvorduhals terminates, is a huge draw for tourists due to its proximity to the main highway and its very impressive waterfall, known as Skogafoss. To us, after being on the lightly trafficked trail for the past few days, it felt like a total zoo. Giant busses dropped off camera-wielding tourists who aggressively fought their way into position for the perfect instagram shot. It was such an entertaining spectacle that we had no other choice to embrace it and relish the experience. The campground was smack dab in the center of the action, so we enjoyed an endless stream of premium people-watching from the comfort of our tent. The waterfall views were pretty sweet too. Although we appreciated Skogar for what it was worth, we realized pretty quickly that we would struggle hang around at the campground for the nearly 48 hours until our bus was scheduled to pick us up (since we finished a day early). Fortunately, we were able to change our tickets and decided to make the most of our extra time by heading back to Reykjavik, which is how we ended up at the lovely campground where I began this post. We walked around the city for quite awhile yesterday before enjoying a picnic feast for dinner. Soon, we will head off to Chamonix, where we’ll spend a few days in town before beginning our next trek, the Haute Route. We’ll spend nearly two weeks traversing the Alps as we make our way from Chamonix to Zermatt, sleeping in our tent all but a couple of nights. As we wrap up in Iceland, it is easy to get caught up in looking ahead to what’s next. Sure, that excitement is certainly part of the fun, but we have to keep reminding ourselves to try to stay in the moment. We’ve been planning this thing for so long and already the days are getting ticked off the itinerary at a remarkable pace. It’s amazing how time moves when you wake up every day and get to do exactly the thing you want to be doing. It has been an incredible experience to be in a given moment and realize that you honestly don’t want to be any other place or in any other time. What a rare and fortunate feeling. Until the next post, we’ll do our best to keep soaking it all up.
